Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 

Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed."

Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996.

I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing?

This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!!

GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts.
Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far.

Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner.

The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done.

Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.

I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there.

We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been.
Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened.

This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section.

Don't know why, but I couldn't figure the crux out. Then watched my girlfriend do it. Went back up and sent it, no problem. Just gotta find the right sequence through the crux.

Pretty fun stuff.

I really enjoy this route. There are some 5.10 moves getting to the crux. The crux is sequency and challenging, and then there is a nice bold overhanging section to the anchors.

Super beta: the crux comes after clipping bolt 5, starting from the iron cross position. The next placement of the right foot is key--don't put it on the good hold, but rather on a poorer hold right below. Now cross the left foot through and put it on the good foothold, laybacking against the right hand. Position the left hand high in the crack, get the right foot on the good edge up and to the right, and crank a Gaston with the left hand, standing high and reaching for the obvious chalked horn right of bolt 6. Don't bother with any intermediates for the right hand--just go straight to the horn.

It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP.

Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on.