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Day of cragging around Camarillo, CA - recommendations?
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Site Landlord
Apr 8, 2012
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
A friend and I will be in Camarillo for the day next Monday, and are looking for a recommendation of the best place to climb 5.10-5.11 for a day near there. Seems like Malibu State Park, Echo Cliffs, or Gibraltar?

What says the locals - how to best spend one day in April cragging near Camarillo!?

Thanks
Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,411 points
Apr 8, 2012
J Tree after blizzard
Of those three, I would highly recommend Gibraltar. It has some great routes in that range, and the scenery and ocean views are amazing. Do not pass on a chance to climb there. plantmandan
From Brighton, Co
Joined Sep 24, 2010
60 points
Apr 8, 2012
Half dome Cables
Never been to Gibraltar, but frequented malibu creek and once at echo. both places provide plenty of climbing in shade when the sun is beaming down. I've always wanted to try these other spots near by.

mountainproject.com/v/the-look...

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Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
Joined Mar 6, 2010
804 points
Apr 9, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
Echo. Better climbing than Gibralter, and much closer too. csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Apr 9, 2012
Eichorns Pinnacle
Being one of the only "locals" to chime in so far, I can recommend the following:

If you want to place gear/climb cracks, Gibraltar is the spot to go. There are also a handful of bolted lines around. About an hour drive from Camarillo. Some awesome lines to be had here like T-Crack 5.10, The Nose 5.11, Self Reflection 5.11c, and Crank Start 5.11c. Pseudomania 5.11- and Makunaima 5.11c are stellar crack lines just a short hike up the hill. Lieback Annie 5.7 and The Rapture 5.8 are also very closeby and good warmups for the harder stuff. Plus, there is some historical value - the likes of Yvon Chouinard, Henry Barber, Tex Bossier, Jim Donini and others have graced this area.

If you want to clip bolts on mostly unmemorable routes, go anywhere else. Malibu = crowded (prob not on a Monday), Echo = choss. Wheeler Gorge is a good sport climbing alternative, with plenty of routes in the 5.10-11 range. A beautiful spot with swimming holes right next to the climbs.
Richard Shore
Joined Aug 17, 2009
4,364 points
Apr 9, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
San Ysidro is also a nice place to go. I was there this past weekend. A few nice trad routes and some fun bolted face routes. The base is in the trees so it's nice and cool for the most of the day. Lots of poison oak off the trails so be careful.

If you want all out multi-pitch trad then I would recommend travelling the extra distance to Sespe Gorge. Great 5.7 2 pitch crack routes and lots of other stuff within 10 min drive. It's my favorite place to practice trad.
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Apr 9, 2012
I don't know, I've always been somewhat disappointed with Gibraltar. Too broken up, too short, often rather contrived. Fine if you're already in Santa Barbara. Not really worth the drive if you're not though.

Given what the OP says he interested in climbing, I'd say go to Echo or Malibu Creek. The latter has better rock but fewer number of routes. Nevertheless, both will be mostly empty during the week and they are fun climbing.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Apr 10, 2012
old 1/4" bolt.
Andy...I agree with Fat Dad. Echo Cliffs would be your best choice. Great scenery, with a nice hike in and a variety of sun/shade options and over 150+ routes to choose from. During the week there won't be any crowds. You should have a wonderful time. Disregard the comment about "choss." That card has been placed too often! Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Joined Jan 2, 2007
13,164 points
Apr 10, 2012
OTL
Benjamin Chapman wrote:
Disregard the comment about "choss." That card has been placed too often!


Come 'on - I'm sure even you can admit when entire routes have glue-reinforced holds, that "choss" aptly applies.

Still a fun place to check out, though.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
345 points
Apr 10, 2012
Another vote for Echo - beautiful spot. Headwound 5.9 is a great two-pitch climb. Daniel Wade
From Oakland, CA.
Joined Jan 29, 2012
34 points
Apr 13, 2012
Davi Rivas on the U-Notch, Palisades, 06/06/2011
+1 Richard's recomendation.
If you go to Wheelers on a Monday, you'll have the whole place to yourself. Good parking, easy access/approach, from Camarillo, your climbing in 60 minutes.
Davi Rivas
From Ventura, CA
Joined Feb 3, 2006
1,356 points
Administrator
Apr 13, 2012
8-21-09
For the area, Echo packs the most bang for your buck. M.Morley
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Jan 1, 2002
7,006 points


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