|E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Location. Just right of the start of Death by Chocolate is an obvious corner with a crack. Pass this and a little further up the canyon is a slab and groove that leads to the D.of A ramps. The route consists of mainly 5.4/5 exposed ramps and one of the best pitches on the slabs - the 5.8 pitch 4.
P1) Pleasant climbing up good rock. First up a short slab, then right onto the long ramp system to anchors. 200' 5.4R
P2) From the cave move out onto another easy ramp/slab/crack groove to anchors. 200' 5.4R
P3) Continue up an easy groove to the top of the pillar. 100' 5.3R
P4) A really nice pitch. Continue to the top of the groove, and then climb up left to a bolt. Turn the roof on the left then step out right onto the exposed ramp. Three protection bolts to bolt anchors. 200' 5.8R
P5) Follow ramp system. 200' 5.4R (Not much if all protection on most of these easy pitches)
P6) Follow ramp. 200' 5.4R
P7) Nicely exposed ramp along the edge of a detached monolith that forms a chimney to anchors. 200' 5.4R
P8) The ramp now becomes enclosed. Follow and then make a step down right around a massive chockstone to a block filled amphitheater, natural belays. 200' 5.5R
P9) Scramble blocks then up a short 5.6 step to a notch in the summit ridge. 100' 5.6 Register in small cairn in gap and another above D by C
Descent. This route would be difficult to rap off. Either rap down Death By Chocolate OR 4th class down slabs to the south (see description of descent from Death by Chocolate. To find the top of D by C walk around the corner and down left from the notch. Keep looking down left to spot anchors on top of the last pitch of D by C.
A small selection of cams, #3 1/2 friend useful on pitch 4. Slings, a few quick draws. Two 200' 9mm ropes
BETA PHOTO: Shows Routes A) "Death by Chocolate" III 5.8+. B) ...
P.Ross high on Pitch 4 . 'Day of Atonement'.
Scot Carson greeted back at camp by Jack Russells ...
Scot high on crux Pitch 4. View full size
Billy Rothstein following the 5.8 pitch on the fir...
Jim Shimberg on the crux pitch
Chris Bonington starting the 200' pitch 7
Scot starting up the crux pitch, View Full Size......
Chris Bonington at the Summit Oct/2007
IME lads Andy and Scot on the Summit
Andy Ross and Jim Howe attempting to overcome the ...
Scott on Pitch 5
Andy Ross and Scot Carson on pitch 3.. Tele photo
On the summit looking south .
|By Creed Murdock|
Oct 25, 2004
Approach,the slot canyon may require wading through some water, depending on recent weather. We had to wade 2 waist deep potholes. We avoided the potholes on the way back down by climbing out of the canyon(one 5.5 move) to the north where you encounter the drop with a big chokestone, head toward a small V-notch(5.2)then scarmble ramps to the valley floor. The climb was great. Pitch 4,5,7,8 are VERY exposed with little to no protection. Be prepared for long 100-200ft runouts on sandy rock(quality may clean up a bit with use). We added a piton in the chokestone on pitch 8 to help protect the easy but airy step around move.
|By Creed Murdock|
Oct 25, 2004
typo correction from first comment, climb is rated 5.8+,not 5.11. (1or2 5.8+ moves,the rest is exposed 5.5-5.4)
|By nooky brown|
Oct 26, 2004
I don't know if Mr Ross cares about gear being added to his rtes, though I would like to add that he is putting those rtes up on the lead at age 65 yrs young.
Nov 2, 2007
If there is water in the slot canyon there is another approach to this climb and Death by Chocolate see route description of Road to Mecca