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P.C.T. Cliff
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Day Hike T 
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Day Hike 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Patrick Mulligan on Jun 27, 2012

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The route is visible here. Start on face holds be...

Description 

This route climbs a series of broken and horizontal cracks on the wall to the right of the PCT Crack area. In the new guidebook its described as a zigzaging crack, but its really linking horizontals from faceholds. As we climbed it we went straight up through a couple of cruxy areas and then left to the finger crack leading over the top. Its consistently steep and every move felt about 5.9. I thought it was hard for the grade and could be 10-.


Location 

The route starts on positive face holds and heads into a left facing / left leaning dihedral. There are bolts on the slab about 6' back from the lip of the climb with new chains.


Protection 

Good selection of nuts and cams from 00 to #3. Doubles in the finger to hand range are helpful.



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By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 29, 2013

The bolts at the top of this climb are a prime example of galvanic corrosion and were obviously placed just below a water streak. I wouldn't rap off them (although I think they were new last year) and walked left to the stainless anchors at the top of helping hands.

After climbing this again I've bumped it to 3 stars. Its a unique and worthy climb.