This route climbs a series of broken and horizontal cracks on the wall to the right of the PCT Crack area. In the new guidebook its described as a zigzaging crack, but its really linking horizontals from faceholds. As we climbed it we went straight up through a couple of cruxy areas and then left to the finger crack leading over the top. Its consistently steep and every move felt about 5.9. I thought it was hard for the grade and could be 10-.
The route starts on positive face holds and heads into a left facing / left leaning dihedral. There are bolts on the slab about 6' back from the lip of the climb with new chains.
Good selection of nuts and cams from 00 to #3. Doubles in the finger to hand range are helpful.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Jul 29, 2013
The bolts at the top of this climb are a prime example of galvanic corrosion and were obviously placed just below a water streak. I wouldn't rap off them (although I think they were new last year) and walked left to the stainless anchors at the top of helping hands.
After climbing this again I've bumped it to 3 stars. Its a unique and worthy climb.