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Wind Tower - SW Face
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Day 444 T 
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Wind Ridge T 
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 

Day 444 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Stuberg, M. Downing, 1981
Season: Faces S/SW
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Day 444 is a route with some fun movement in spots, but the lichen, poor rock quality, limited opportunity for bomber protection, and dispersed loose blocks and pebbles throughout separate it in memory from other area routes, not its 'fun factor.

I had last climbed the route in 1995 and was probably one of the last few people to do it prior to repeating it in 2013 when my 120 lb (if soaking wet and carrying a rack) climbing partner pulled a microwave-oven-sized block off of the climb, and there are more of these to go.
If you must climb here, then be careful up there, wear a helmet, put the belayer out of harm's way, stash the packs on high ground, and watch your step (and grip).

The base can be found in some bushes just left of a broken and discontinuous, right-racing corner 25 meters uphill, where a small, thin offset and splitter goes up a slight overhang for the first 4 meters of climbing prior to passing by a small bulge/roof on your left.

Continue up and gradually right for a while, wandering somewhat to get pro and avoid loose gravel and flakes. At about 50', there is a very loose band which has produced even recent rockfall. Up higher, a bump left will be necessary to avoid going through a large, overhanging inset near the top of the rock. The walk-off ledge used to come down from Breezy and Wind Ridge is just above that and there is a 8" diameter pine tree and then a large block to sling for protection and a belay on that ledge.

Location 

This climb starts uphill and perhaps 25 meters left of the Breezy dihedral.

Protection 

A standard light rack of stoppers and cams from tips to #3 Camalot. It sounds like a lot of gear, but not all of it is great. Also, bring long slings.


Comments on Day 444 Add Comment
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By Dave Holliday
Dec 4, 2013

I did this route about five years ago. I remember a somewhat chossy but not dangerous route. It sounds like conditions have recently changed.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2014

My partner pulled one of the multiple flakes off that I had avoided. I think the flood or the freeze-thaws got to this route pretty bad.