Davis-Holland Route 

There is a newer (and in my opinion, better) variation to Lovin Arms called Suicidal Thoughts of Paranoia aka STP. It goes at .11c/d and begins by following the obvious right trending bolt line from the top of the Davis-Holland 3rd pitch. After a short bit of "filler" climbing, you catch an awesome and challenging dike to a belay (.11c/d crux). Next is a meandering gear protected .11a that is mucho entertaining! Finally, connect with the 5.9 headwall of Loving Arms that leads to a spectacular topout.

Great climb. First pitch was wet (as advertised), but the finger locks are bomber so the water was more of a novelty than a problem. Second pitch is sweet fingers to tight hands - suprisingly pumpy and sustained for the grade. I brought three green Camalots (#0.75) and placed them all, and probably could have placed more - the crack is very consistent in that width and #1 Camalots didn't go in. Third pitch (we did the single bolt friction option out left) was varied, suspenseful, and fun. Lots of small nuts protect the business portion of this pitch. Each pitch was about 30-35m. We didn't have time for Lovin Arms, and rappelled straight down in 2 rappels (double rope).

A conservative rack for this climb would be nuts (including thin), double set of cams from fingers to #3 Camalot, with 1 or 2 extra green Camalots for good measure.

Great route. The second pitch is actually a left facing corner, not right facing as listed in the description. On 4/12, the first pitch was still a little wet but not too bad. The first pitch on Lovin' Arms was also a little wet.

Not true. Not that it matters all that much, but the corner is right facing.

Perspective? No, the corner faces right (as does the Stern Farmer, Split Pillar, etc). Thanks for the pic.

I guess I was smoking crack.

P3 Cannot be rapped with a 60m rope, but can with a 70m. If you top out on the UTW With a 60m rope, you can move climber's left to a sport route just left of the major chimney/fault system and easily rap straight down (new fixed stations) with one 60m rope.

Bringing an extra rope is better than rapping over someone on another route.

Great, sustained, and highly recommended route. As per Andy's comment, I carried multiple green Camalots (5 total) and placed them all. It is also worth noting that it pays having a red and/or gold Camalot handy for the last 20 feet of climbing...it is on much easier terrain, but it's wider and feels a bit insecure compared to the perfect jams of the lower corner.

As reported, P2 sucked up the .75 Green BD. I used four of them, though I think if you look hard enough you could probably find spots in the crack that would accept another size. Regardless, if you take 3 of them or 5, you will use them and be fine.

Lovin Arms is a great finish. I would recommend this over rapping from P3.

If you only have a 60 meter rope and your topping out on Lovin Arms, there is a decent way to rap off the upper town wall using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors:
See comments on Lovin Arms for descent info.

Absolutely classic. Finish with Lovin' Arms for an epic day!

Repeated this route today. Damn fine climbing indeed! Four green camalots worked out fine. I did the one bolt variation out left at the start of P3, and enjoyed it again. Definitely balancy though.

P1 might have been the wetest 50' of climbing I've ever done. It was absolutely soaking wet and full of moss. Fortunately the gear was bomber and somehow I made it up - but I was surprising even myself with the upward progress.

The rest of the climb was totally dry.

I had a #4 camalot, and I placed it on P1 (and one spot on P3, but it wasn't required there). I could have placed a #3 camalot in the spot at P1, but it was pretty tipped out considering it was in water+moss - so I has happy with the #4. YMMV.

Did this route for the first time today. I found the 10a pitch quite sustained. But for the experienced 10a leader, four or even three green .75 cams is overkill. there are places for other pieces when you need them. Oh, and you can rap with one 60 meter from the top of the third pitch.

Did this route about 25 years ago (free), one of the best ever. Protects just fine with a set of old school hexes and wires.