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Davis-Holland Route T 
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Waterway 

Davis-Holland Route 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dan Davis, John Holland
Page Views: 7,645
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jun 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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pitch 2

Description 

The Davis-Holland Route is a super-classic at Index. Although it technically has 6 pitches, most only do the first 3 and either rap from there or continue up Lovin' Arms to the top of the Upper Wall (this combination is also very classic).

P1: Jam up a handcrack (sometimes a little wet when the rest of the route is dry). Upon reaching a ledge, wander over right and then back to your left on small terraces to reach a bolted belay in a right-facing corner.

P2: Jam and/or lieback the crack up the right-facing corner to another bolted belay.

P3: Climb up and right from the anchor, around the roof, then back left into a right-facing corner (another variation goes directly out left around the corner past a bolt, but the moves are very balancy and potentially harder than the route's original crux). Climb up the corner past a crux with delicate footwork and small holds to a bolted belay on a ledge. Rap from this belay (or continue on Lovin Arms).

Instead of rapping the route, it is a wiser choice to make one double rope (60m) rap to anchors at the top of the sport wall. From there a second double-rope rap will get you to the ground.


Location 

The route is immediately to the left when you reach the upper town walls via the standard approach trail. It heads up a corner to the left of a blank face. Further uphill is the "sport wall."


Protection 

A typical trad route, gear to 3" will suffice, although you could probably be fine without a #3. The crux pitch protects with small nuts, so bring extras if possible. All anchors are bolted.



Photos of Davis-Holland Route Slideshow Add Photo
Nicola Masciandaro in the middle of the second pitch.
Nicola Masciandaro in the middle of the second pit...
Loren Foss on P2 of DHLA.
Loren Foss on P2 of DHLA.
The Manimal on Davis/Holland
The Manimal on Davis/Holland
Comments on Davis-Holland Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 23, 2013
By Ryan Triplett
Jul 17, 2006

There is a newer (and in my opinion, better) variation to Lovin Arms called Suicidal Thoughts of Paranoia aka STP. It goes at .11c/d and begins by following the obvious right trending bolt line from the top of the Davis-Holland 3rd pitch. After a short bit of "filler" climbing, you catch an awesome and challenging dike to a belay (.11c/d crux). Next is a meandering gear protected .11a that is mucho entertaining! Finally, connect with the 5.9 headwall of Loving Arms that leads to a spectacular topout.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 8, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great climb. First pitch was wet (as advertised), but the finger locks are bomber so the water was more of a novelty than a problem. Second pitch is sweet fingers to tight hands - suprisingly pumpy and sustained for the grade. I brought three green Camalots (#0.75) and placed them all, and probably could have placed more - the crack is very consistent in that width and #1 Camalots didn't go in. Third pitch (we did the single bolt friction option out left) was varied, suspenseful, and fun. Lots of small nuts protect the business portion of this pitch. Each pitch was about 30-35m. We didn't have time for Lovin Arms, and rappelled straight down in 2 rappels (double rope).

A conservative rack for this climb would be nuts (including thin), double set of cams from fingers to #3 Camalot, with 1 or 2 extra green Camalots for good measure.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 14, 2008

Great route. The second pitch is actually a left facing corner, not right facing as listed in the description. On 4/12, the first pitch was still a little wet but not too bad. The first pitch on Lovin' Arms was also a little wet.

By Ryan Triplett
Apr 14, 2008

Not true. Not that it matters all that much, but the corner is right facing.

By Ryan Triplett
Apr 15, 2008

Perspective? No, the corner faces right (as does the Stern Farmer, Split Pillar, etc). Thanks for the pic.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 28, 2008

I guess I was smoking crack.

By blakeherrington
May 21, 2008

P3 Cannot be rapped with a 60m rope, but can with a 70m. If you top out on the UTW With a 60m rope, you can move climber's left to a sport route just left of the major chimney/fault system and easily rap straight down (new fixed stations) with one 60m rope.

By stuey
May 23, 2008

Bringing an extra rope is better than rapping over someone on another route.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 9, 2008

Great, sustained, and highly recommended route. As per Andy's comment, I carried multiple green Camalots (5 total) and placed them all. It is also worth noting that it pays having a red and/or gold Camalot handy for the last 20 feet of climbing...it is on much easier terrain, but it's wider and feels a bit insecure compared to the perfect jams of the lower corner.

By Tod Bloxham
Aug 24, 2009

As reported, P2 sucked up the .75 Green BD. I used four of them, though I think if you look hard enough you could probably find spots in the crack that would accept another size. Regardless, if you take 3 of them or 5, you will use them and be fine.

Lovin Arms is a great finish. I would recommend this over rapping from P3.

If you only have a 60 meter rope and your topping out on Lovin Arms, there is a decent way to rap off the upper town wall using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors:
See comments on Lovin Arms for descent info.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Absolutely classic. Finish with Lovin' Arms for an epic day!

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Repeated this route today. Damn fine climbing indeed! Four green camalots worked out fine. I did the one bolt variation out left at the start of P3, and enjoyed it again. Definitely balancy though.

P1 might have been the wetest 50' of climbing I've ever done. It was absolutely soaking wet and full of moss. Fortunately the gear was bomber and somehow I made it up - but I was surprising even myself with the upward progress.

The rest of the climb was totally dry.

I had a #4 camalot, and I placed it on P1 (and one spot on P3, but it wasn't required there). I could have placed a #3 camalot in the spot at P1, but it was pretty tipped out considering it was in water+moss - so I has happy with the #4. YMMV.

By Colin Bartholomew
From: WASHINGTON
Aug 18, 2010

Did this route for the first time today. I found the 10a pitch quite sustained. But for the experienced 10a leader, four or even three green .75 cams is overkill. there are places for other pieces when you need them. Oh, and you can rap with one 60 meter from the top of the third pitch.

By Mark Wenzel
Nov 15, 2010

Did this route about 25 years ago (free), one of the best ever. Protects just fine with a set of old school hexes and wires.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 23, 2013

Ryan Triplett
Apr 15, 2008
Perspective? No, the corner faces right (as does the Stern Farmer, Split Pillar, etc). Thanks for the pic.
I do agree that the split pillar is right facing.

I am dislexic but does the Split Pillar face Right and the 2nd pitch of Davis Holland face Left?The wall is vertical on my right side, facing left, no?