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Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Burns, Schillaci, Fehlau (perhaps TR'd earlier by Barlow?)
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,004
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
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Making it look easy on a fine winter day. January ...

Description 

Thin face climbing that requires more technique and trust than power. Crux comes around last bolt and to the anchors. The route can be started from atop the boulder/wall or from below the boulder/wall. Starting down low makes for a run-out to the first bolt but the climbing is fairly easy.


Location 

Face route right of Holy Wall and Holy Crack. Shown as route number 14 on the Overlook route topo photo.


Protection 

Five bolts to chain anchor. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress below the main wall. Anchor can be reached from the top to set a TR if you're really desperate and cautious but best to sling the boulders for a TR anchor.



Photos of Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) Slideshow Add Photo
Bobbi Bensman on Dave's Face-10c
Bobbi Bensman on Dave's Face-10c
Jon Richard navigating the Sale at Mervyn's.
Jon Richard navigating the Sale at Mervyn's.
Comments on Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) Add Comment
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By Curt Dvonch
Mar 12, 2011

The fixed biners are getting severely warn down on this route's anchors. Any suggestions for what biners to use when replacing these ones?

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 12, 2011

Excellent that you want to replace them, Curt. Thanks. Obviously, steel biners are best but expensive. Any type of aluminum biner works but, as you've seen, will wear pretty quickly. Bent gate biners are nice and easier for clipping but not required.
I'm in the habit of using one steel, one aluminum with the steel preferably taking most of the load. I have some nice steel biners (there's one on Holy Wall now) that I'll be glad to place one on this route next time I'm there.

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Aug 21, 2013

...was just chatting with Luke at dinner tonight about the renaming of this route way back when to "Sale at Mervyns." Mervyns is a high-quality purveyor of high-quality Chinese made crap. A department store, if you will. Or at least they were. On Earth Day 1989 or 1990 (can't remember which year), Mervyn's undertook a mass effort in which the firm hung little plastic bags filled with advertising junk on every door in Los Alamos (and likely most of northern NM). Mike, Paul, and I were headed out to do this route. Hence the name change. Only later did we learn about a bloke named Dave having top-roped it or something. Kudos to Dave. Kudos----NOT----to Mervyns.