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This phallic spire offers a couple good routes in the 5.10 range. "Route One" is reasonably well protected for the needles area, while "Heads you wins" has some bold sections with pumpy climbing.
Park in the first pull-off on the left as you head east into the switch backs. Follow a short trail down the hill to the base of a spire with a large chockstone at the base.
2 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Dave's Dinghy
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dave's Dinghy:
Route One 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Heads you win 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Dave's Dinghy
Route One 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 SD : Custer State Park : ... : Dave's Dinghy
This is an enjoyable route that is well protected by the Needles standards. There are still a handful of runouts on easier rock.Scramble up to gully and pull on to the rock from a large chockstone. Angle up to the right and clip a fixed pin, which can be backed up with a large brass nut. Climb the face to the left until you can join the arete and a nut placement (#10 HB). Make a 5.10a move on the arete, even though the bolt tempts you to the right. After the bolt, angle left to the ar...[more] Browse More Classics in SD