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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Dat-Mantel 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1976 Rich Perch, Kevin Bein, Barbara Devine, Rich Ross
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 26, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: looking up at Dat-Mantel

Description 

Start at the vertical crack in the middle of the Mantel boulder. Climb up past a thin right facing flake to the roof above. Go up through the roof at a very small left facing edge (crux).

After getting established above the roof, go straight up to a block with a bunch of slings wrapped around it and a rap ring and quick-link.


Location 

On the Mantel boulder just left of Dis-Mantel


Protection 

Standard gunks rack plus micro cams and a micro nut. The gear is a little bit fiddly in the beginning of the pitch.



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The move on Dat Mantel.
The move on Dat Mantel.
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By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jul 30, 2011

Takes a gold Camalot below the roof on a long runner and a red Camalot clipped short immediately above the lip of the roof in a horizontal. You can also get a #1 blue Metolius in the horizontal to back it up.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 8, 2011

I added a sling to the thread under the scary looking block on the top of this today. Only mentioning it incase anyone else decides to do the same. There is some kind of rodent or maybe a bat living in there and it didn't like it when I stuck my hand in.
Anyway, the climbing was fun and fairly easy up to the roof. The crux is just pulling over...