|197 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10 [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Dalke and Ament, early 1960's. FFA: later by others|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jul 19, 2006|
|Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>|
This route is both a sandbag and a runout. The gear is poor and the rock questionable in some places. No less there are some fun moves on the route, just barely saving it from the total bomb rating.
Climb in from the right on so-so holds, coming around a corner on a crack (1.5" cam, long sling) and up onto some side-pulls just above the lowest of some pin-scars in the broken shallow cracks 2' right of the red right-facing dihedral. You can place a stopper or small cam (long sling) once your feet are established. Climb up this corner to its top, placing gear when possible (long slings) to a horizontal band above it and start moving left. The feet are crumbly. Some gear (long slings) can be placed near a bulge that can be pinched between the thighs to create a good stance on this bulging traverse through poor rock. Climb up to a stance in a wide crack (no good gear) before a set of two slots. This is NOT a [good] belay.
Continue up the left slot via a squeeze and fist jams, thinning to hands on OK gear (3.5" cams and down) or up the right slot (funky face and jams) and build a belay up above on stoppers and smaller cams.
To finish, summit to the East to an eye-bolt at the Eastern edge of the First Pinnacle, or scramble down the ridge to the West (easy 4th class).
This route climbs up the West end (right side) of the North face of the outside of the First Pinnacle, in the area of a right-leaning, right-facing dihedral.
A standard light rack with a set of nuts and cams from small to 3.5". Double 2.5" and 3" might be good. Take a quiver of long slings, as you may place a lot of gear (most of it poor) and have a lot of drag.