Das Fruit Machine is a nice addition to the Arsenal. In typical Arsenal fashion, the climbing is steep and thuggy, with big holds. At times, this route gets dangerously close to its neighbors, making it feel a bit like a squeeze job. Nevertheless, the route is fun, and once it gets dusted off, it will no doubt become a must do at Rifle.
To start, climb up a skirt of very chossy rock, and carefully clip the first bolt. Pull into a very shallow scoop, and power up to a horizontal break. Cut left and zigzag over a bulge. Grab a quick shake and then navigate through the redpoint crux using shitty pinches and helpful kneebars to another break. With one last bulge standing in the way of redpoint glory, muster all your reserves, and muckle past some small crimps to the anchors.
DFM is a fairly independent line with some good moves, friendly grips, and nice rock. As far as the Arsenal is concerned you could do much worse.
One route to the right of Pretty Hate Machine.
Bolts, and a two bolt anchor. A 50 meter rope will get you back to the ground. You may want two kneepads for this route.
Aug 17, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I overlooked this route for a long time because of its scruffy appearance. It's fun! The movement is great, and while sharp and a little unpleasant through the first roof, the quality improves all the way to the top. I particularly enjoyed the last boulder problem, which tests your fitness because there are no good footholds that allow you to shake out for very long while hanging from the jug crack.