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Darth Vader's Revenge 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Herb Davis, July 1978
Page Views: 2,752
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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miming the right off the deck thrilling hand trave...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Follows a line of bolts, past a roof, to the right of "Golfer's Route".
A Tuolumne classic! Gets a lot of traffic.


Small pro and draws.

Photos of Darth Vader's Revenge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Darth Vader's Revenge". Photo by Blitzo...
"Darth Vader's Revenge". Photo by Blitzo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin face climbing often results in thin facial ex...
Thin face climbing often results in thin facial ex...
Rock Climbing Photo: whatever
Rock Climbing Photo: crux'n

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By oldbull
From: Laguna Beach, CA
Apr 14, 2009

A very fun traverse out right early on to a so-so nut that protects the move after the traverse and on your way up to the bolt under the small roof. Stellar position getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over....moderate slab moves find you for the home stretch to the chains.
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jul 7, 2011

The traverse down low goes left not right
From: Boston, MA
Dec 12, 2011

Not exactly a sport climb, definitely mixed, gear down low and bolts up high. Wouldn't want to make the traverse down low with no gear in! Definitely a great route!
By Sara Ann
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Place two pieces before the first bolt and it's not PG13.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What a hoot. Bring some microcams and this is totally well protected. Do it.
By Robert Hall
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As "oldbull" said " getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over" is the crux, although shorter climbers might find the step-and-reach out left (down lower) to be the issue.
By WillF
Jul 20, 2015

A blue/purple master cam was nice to have for the "small nut" section. The traverse at the beginning was fun.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 4, 2015

60m rope works for this line. This one's a nice example of 10a Tuolumne mini-knob climbing. The roof can be surmounted either left-to-right, or right-to-left, as our party of three demonstrated.

If nobody else is around, you can reasonably clip the final bolt of Shit Hooks as a directional on the way down (adding another one at the top of the crack portion of the climb) in order to top-rope that route as well. Other than the minor burl of the first section on that climb though, it didn't seem any harder of a lead than Darth Vader's Revenge. Might need a 70m if you're doing this TR setup on Shit Hooks, not sure.

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