|113 page views|
Poor holds right off the ground lead to steep moves on good holds past the first bolt. (Stick clip useful). Romp up to the 3rd bolt and get a good rest. The fixed nut is pretty good and can be backed up with a .5 camalot or 1-1.5" piece. Fight up the overhanging layback to a stance and a bolt. Work left on good holds to a nice rest. Quest up the face past a mix of bolts and gear until you make it to a roof way up high. Pull another solid 5.11/11+ crux past closely spaced bolts. Some more easy climbing, and a few tricky hero moves lead to an anchor at 35 meters. Watch the end of your rope if you lower off!
This route is under a nice roof and the lefmost of a trio of bolt lines (Welcome to Darkside, We Free Boys). Look for a low roof and then a fin of rock on the right of a second roof about 20 feet up.
13 Bolts plus a single set of cams to 2.5". Bolted anchor with Chains. Makes sure you have a 70m rope. Otherwise rappel to the right to the midway anchor on Welcome to the Darkside.