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Darth Vader
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Caged, The S 
Darth Vader T 
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Yoda S 

Darth Vader 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jay Lena 6/88
Page Views: 2,027
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Um...

Description 

A seldom climbed but fun route found a few feet left of Yoda. being trad protected and in the middle of the hotbed of sport climbing, it's no wonder why it sees less traffic. However, there are anchors at the top that you could easily set up a toprope on after leading Yoda.

Starting 10 feet left of Yoda in a corner.... Climb either straight up with stemming or out right and back to meet the nice fingers and hands crack. A little loose rock may be encountered, but over all, the route is quality, having the same over all feel as its popular neighbors without the bolts.

Another reason to bring a small rack to Rumney on a crowded day.

Darth Vadar is shown at 1:05

Location 

Just left of Yoda (5.9) on the left end of Darth Vader Crag....

Protection 

trad gear to anchor....


Photos of Darth Vader Slideshow Add Photo
Richard pulling through the crux
Richard pulling through the crux
me again... photo by mike t
me again... photo by mike t
kevin OG jammin it
kevin OG jammin it
Elin in the crux...
Elin in the crux...
kevin... flashing it
kevin... flashing it
elin getting ready to TR this great route
BETA PHOTO: elin getting ready to TR this great route
me... photo by mike
me... photo by mike
Lee Leading Darth Vader, Nicole Kurth leads Yoda i...
Lee Leading Darth Vader, Nicole Kurth leads Yoda i...

Comments on Darth Vader Add Comment
Show which comments
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 20, 2009

The low bolt is now gone, im just hoping some one didn't fall on it. The route can still be climbed, and reasonably protected by going right first and sneaking in a piece or two. As Lee says in the description, a TR can also easily be set up with a small traverse from the top of Yoda. Bring gear to extend the anchor over the lip as it is very abrasive rock up there
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

yes the bolt was removed because where the bolt was there is bomber trad placements merely inches above it, so the bolt didnt make much sense
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 21, 2009

yeah the bolt was silly... you could easily ground out with that thing clipped so it was not needed... as matt said the gear is fine...
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Mar 25, 2009

Sounds good....thanks for the info
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 19, 2010

After much loose rock was taken out of the lowest section below, I finished the climb on a cold day in early December, 1987 with 'Lee the Flea'. It was quite an excavation to create what is known now as 'Darth Vader'. The name of the climb is fine and "may the force be with us".
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this for the first time today. Super fun movement through the flaring offwidth, and some engaging climbing above. too bad it's so short.
By thomasg
Jul 22, 2014

good climbing with huge jugs throughout. a 0.5 C4 or a good nut protects the removed bolt portion. maybe removing the 1 bolt beta from the page would be good since there is none anymore.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 22, 2014

i changed it... forgot it was in there :) glad to hear this climb is getting some use!