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BETA PHOTO: Darth Vader routes...
Description At the cross-roads of many of Rumney's upper crags, the compact upper and lower walls of Darth Vader offer routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.12. This crag is a popular destination for intermediate climbers and a heavily traveled warm up area.
The main attraction to this crag are arguably THE two best 5.9s at Rumney: Yoda (5.9) and Obi-Won-Ryobi (5.9+). These side-by-side climbs at "Lower 'Vader" offer stellar moves and are literally right off of the trail en route to Waimea and the other upper crags. If there is not a line for these climbs, it is hard to find excuse not to run up them! Lower Vader is also home the crag's only 5.12s, which are seldom done and often overlooked.
Upper Vader is a good choice for intermediates and groups, as there is a 5.4, 5.6, 5.7, and 5.8 next to each other on the far right end of the wall. The left end of Upper Vader offers two short and pumpy climbs: Three Easy Pieces (5.11a) and Easter Squal (5.10d).
this video has most of the routes at Darth Vadar on it.
Getting There Park in the far lot, walk down the road, start hiking at the woods at utility pole #37. Follow engraved wooden signs for "Waimea" or "Darth Vader." Hike up the progressively steepening trail while passing a few large boulders on the left side of the trail. The first crag you get to will be Lower Vader. To get to Upper Vader, walk to climber's right of Lower Vader and take a left up a steep trail. Take the next Left possible, which may or may not be obscured by a fallen tree.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Darth Vader:
Featured Route For Darth Vader
Oby-won Ryobi 5.9+ NH : Rumney : Darth Vader
This is a great example of one of the best things about Rumney climbing....Just cause it's steep doesn't mean it's wicked hard... There are so many big holds on the super steep start that you are bound to skip a few killer jugs on your way to the crux...Most people can clip the first bolt standing on a jutting rock...Grab the highest jug you can reach and start the fun...Move up and right following chalked up jugs with feet out left...When you run out of jugs swing your feet out right and find a... [more] Browse More Classics in NH
cliping a bomber piece on Yoda...
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some dork in a nice kneebar on Yoda
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Darth Vadar,Rumney, NH. June 2011
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chilling in the vadar cave
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 2, 2008
| i did a fun link up today starting on Yoda and finishing on Darth Vader... I thought it took the best parts of the two routes and was more sustained... |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 22, 2010
| The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers |
By Tyler Newcomb
Dec 26, 2012
| As of probably October, and probably still there is a lot of large loose rpck out to the left, so use the right side to hike to the back. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 26, 2012
| Are you reffering to the trail, Tyler? |
By J Meagher
Jan 4, 2013
| Yes, he is talking about the trail that goes around the left side of the crag to the top. He is talking about a microwave-size rock that got pulled loose which hit him and another guy. The trail isn't really dangerous, just watch your step, but I would use the trail on the right of the cliff if you need to get to the top. |
By Tyler Newcomb
Jan 25, 2013
| Actually, I meant a little off trail where ther is also slippery moss, but yes right neer there |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 9, 2013
| here is a video showing ascents of, Darth Vadar 5.9, Jedi Mind Tricks 5.12b, The Caged 5.12d, Storm Troopers 5.12c and the link up Space Balls 5.12b/c... enjoy
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