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Dark Side Wall
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Darth Gaydar 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: Spring, Winter, Fall
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Sep 11, 2012
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Description 

It doesn't matter which way you swing, since this route is gonna make you...swing.

A delicate and nearly miserable start leads to insanely fun climbing on big holds that just don't seem to be in the right place.

If you feel like doing battle with a big, bad-ass route, this climb is an excellent advisary. The torture lets up at about the sixth or seventh bolt and a swath of big, fun, five-elevenish moves leads to a nice rest. Take advantage! The next moves are over a killer roof with a boulder problem finish that will surely be your doom!


Location 

Middle of the Dark Side Wall. Easily recognizable by a rock ledge you can sit on before you boot up. Try to stay out of the crack to the left of the bolt line.


Protection 

Take a dozen draws. Open shunt anchors.



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