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Darrington

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D-Ton Boulders 
Exfoliation Dome & Proxima Wall 
Green Giant Buttress 
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Squire Creek Walls 
Three O'clock Rock 

Darrington Rock Climbing 


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Location: 48.16136, -121.63795 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: MattPerkins on Aug 11, 2007
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Green Giant Buttress

Description 

The climbing area traditionally called "Darrington" is a collection of granite domes in the Clear Creek and Squire Creek drainages south of the town of Darrington. Other climbing opportunities in the area include the "D-Ton Boulders," in the White Chuck River drainage about twelve miles southeast of town, and a crag and some boulders on the south slope of Spring Mountain, about eighteen miles southeast of town. Whitehorse Mountain, immediately southwest of town, makes an excellent ski outing in early season during years of high snow cover. The mountains in the area near Darrington include Glacier Peak, Sloan Peak, Whitechuck, and Three Fingers. There is plenty to do around here.

The mountain valleys around Darrington have a remote feel and, except along highway 530, cell phones generally do not work. The scenery is fantastic, and the climbing is varied. The area has seen steady climbing activity for nearly fifty years but rarely do any of these destinations become crowded. The granite in Clear Creek and Squire Creek features multiple pitch routes on generally clean granite with many leading to a summit. Bolt protection is common but traditional gear is generally required. The bouldering at D-Ton offers a variety of problems, mostly in shade, with a very short approach. Spring Mountain has climbs from one to seven pitches on heavily featured rock, with boulders in deep woods below the cliff. Just a few of the routes and boulders in the area are featured here.

The town of Darrington is changing. Formerly centered around mining and logging, the town now caters more toward tourism and a recreation economy and, in recent years, locals have opened a coffee shop, a brewery, a pizza place, etc. Snohomish County, the Forest Service, and the town have worked with the Washington Climbers Coalition and other recreation and access oriented groups to preserve access and promote recreational use in the area for hikers, climbers, boaters, and horse people.

On the west slope of Cascades, Darrington receives two or three times the annual rainfall of Seattle. The area is heavily vegetated and trees grow even on top of boulders or granite domes. Many climbs may remain wet for a day or two after a prolonged wet period.

Information on D-Ton Boulders and Spring Mountain is available here on Mountain Project. Information about the climbing in Clear Creek (Green Giant Buttress, Three O'Clock Rock, Exfoliation Dome, and Squire Creek Wall) is here as well. A PDF guide is downloadable at www.mattsea.com/Darr .

Getting There 

Darrington is on highway 530, about 30 miles east of I-5 at the Arlington, Washington exit. All of the climbs discussed here are approached on Forest Service roads, which are generally well maintained but may sometimes be unsuitable for low clearance cars or even blocked altogether by fallen trees or landslides.

The Squire Creek Road (Forest Service 2040) heads out of the old downtown at the west end of the old main street. The Clear Creek Road (Forest Service 2060) departs the Mountain Loop Highway just under three miles from the main intersection with a gas station and mini mart in the center of town. The White Chuck Road (Forest Service 23) departs the Mountain Loop Highway about nine miles from town, just after the turn off at the new White Chuck bridge. Spring Mountain is on the North Fork road, Forest Service 49, which departs the Mountain Loop Highway just before the bridge over the North Fork of the Sauk River.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

90 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',18],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',33],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Darrington

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Darrington:
May Day   V3 6A     Boulder   D-Ton Boulders
Stems N Seeds   V4 6B     Boulder   D-Ton Boulders
The Big Tree   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Three O'clock Rock
Under the Bored Walk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Three O'clock Rock
Till Broad Daylight   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Three O'clock Rock
The Rash   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Three O'clock Rock
Magic Bus   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Three O'clock Rock
Blueberry Buttress   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   Exfoliation Dome & Proxima ...
The Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   Three O'clock Rock
Dreamer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   Green Giant Buttress
Urban Bypass   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Green Giant Buttress
Total Soul   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'   Three O'clock Rock
Silent Running   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Three O'clock Rock
Dark Rhythm   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Exfoliation Dome & Proxima ...
The Epic Tail of Sir Norbert   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 10 pitches, 1500'   Squire Creek Walls : Illusion Wall
Excalibur   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   Squire Creek Walls : Illusion Wall
The Page   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 1000'   Squire Creek Walls : Illusion Wall
Roan Wall - Center Stage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   Squire Creek Walls : Waterfall Basin
Ancient Melodies   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'   Exfoliation Dome & Proxima ...
Jacobs Ladder, 5.10b A-1 or 5.11b   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'   Exfoliation Dome & Proxima ...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Darrington

Featured Route For Darrington
Rock Climbing Photo: Martha's Place, the bivy boulder.

Roan Wall - Center Stage 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Waterfall Basin
Beginning at the toe of a small buttress below the obvious large orange/grey colored wall. The first two pitches are approach pitches, disconnected from the remainder of the climb. The route stays on very high-quality granite, with plentiful patina edges, some friction climb, and and cracks up high.Give yourself 3-3.5hrs for the approach. Alternatively, a fantastic camp can be made at the enormous 'bivy boulder' near the base of the route.P1) Beginning at the toe of a small buttress/prow, follow...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Darrington Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Green Giant Buttress.
Green Giant Buttress.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great views east down Clear Creek from the summit ...
Great views east down Clear Creek from the summit ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Roc...
Looking up the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Roc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Comb Buttress from Three O'Clock Rock.
Comb Buttress from Three O'Clock Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up of Exfoliation Dome from Three O'Clock Bu...
Close up of Exfoliation Dome from Three O'Clock Bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Voodoo Peak and Exfoliation Dome.
Voodoo Peak and Exfoliation Dome.
Rock Climbing Photo: Under the Great Arch on Three O'Clock Rock.
Under the Great Arch on Three O'Clock Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Espinosa nearing the two bolts on the route,  and ...
BETA PHOTO: Espinosa nearing the two bolts on the route, and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The West Buttress of Exfoliation Dome
BETA PHOTO: The West Buttress of Exfoliation Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Darrington sunset, Three Fingers peak on the left
Darrington sunset, Three Fingers peak on the left
Rock Climbing Photo: Comb Buttress (on left) and Three O'Clock Rock (on...
Comb Buttress (on left) and Three O'Clock Rock (on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Darrington area granite domes.
Darrington area granite domes.

Comments on Darrington Add Comment
Show which comments
By MattPerkins
From: Seattle, Washington
Jul 12, 2010
As of 7/2010 the updated website address for my partial on-line guide is www.mattsea.com/Darr
By the professor
Jul 10, 2013
Glacier Point Apron, Tuolumne slabs, and the Squamish Apron are mostly glass. Sandstone friction has loose sand grains. But Three O'Clock Rock has outstanding friction properties (haven't been to the other crags yet but I imagine it's the same story there). There is little or no shoe creep on the granite and diorite knobs of Three O'Clock Rock.
By Pat Ahlberg
Aug 10, 2015
Hey all!

Is anyone heading up to Slab Daddy any time soon? I was up there Saturday, and when we rapped down, I forgot my shoes at the base of the first pitch. They're a pair of green La Sportiva Tarantulaces.

Please shoot me a message if so!

Thanks,

Pat

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