Dark Tower  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 80 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Mike Engle, Vern Phinney Submitted By:  Dave Rone on Sep 9, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The start of the Dark Tower route.

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Description 

Scramble up to the northwest edge of the formation to get to the start of the route. Climb up and right on large holds to the first bolt. From here, traverse right and up past two more bolts to gain the flake. The moves past the third bolt to the flake are a little thin.

Climb the flake until you reach a stance on the right hand side of the blade, where you can clip the next bolt. Climbing past this, and the next bolt are the crux of the climb. It's think it's the hardest 5.8 I've done! Both Black Hills Jim and I think it's closer to 5.10.

After the crux, clip a third bolt and continue to the summit. A single 60m rope will easily get you down to an easy scrable back to your stuff.

All in all a pretty cool route! Bolts were put in on lead so it has a little different flavor than the typical Rushmore sport route.

Location 

Dark Tower is directly across the draw from Teachers Pet, and right of Crystal Ship. It's an obvious blade of rock. Cock Rock is directly behind it.

Protection 

Protection is bolts and small to medium cams. Be sure to use some long slings in order to help reduce rope drag. There is a two-bolt anchor on top.

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Traversing to the flake.