Dark Tower 5.13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 102 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a/b [details] |
| FA: | Philip Scoles |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Philip Scoles on Aug 8, 2007 |
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Description Climb frodo's journey on the left side of the north wall, skip the anchors and head up a devious dihedral. Once you're into the roof, attack the first crux to a lip jug. Some 5.12 face moves just before the headwall requiring sidepulls and heel hooks. Entering the final headwall, small crimping sidepulls and weird feet protect the chains with the final "crux". It is a very large chance that you will fall on the last move at least once. Grade not conformed.
Location Left side of the north wall, start up frodo's journey till the ledge, then go straight up into the dihedral, this is where dark tower starts.
Protection Bolts
By peachy spohn
Sep 7, 2011
| I got on this for the first time today and (to my surprise) it had been cleaned and fixed with draws. The climbing is very interesting, the first bulge crux especially, and the higher you get the better the climbing becomes. Solid rock. I recommend it. |
By peachy spohn
Sep 8, 2011
| Today I sent Dark Tower (I think it is the FFA?). Thanks to Phillip for cleaning the route, and letting the line catch my eye! I would say it is surely .13a/b, but more towards the "b." Great line! |
By another Chad
Sep 9, 2011
| Nice work Matt. "It's too hot for projects" is not an excuse I can use anymore!
Chad |
By phillip
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| Lousy video, but good beta!
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