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Star Wall
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Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 
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Dark Star 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Watts, Bill Ramsey, July 14 1981
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Sep 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another killer stem line in the Lower Gorge! Thin, but doable moves open this amazing route, after which the difficulty slowly builds as you climb higher. The crux comes high on the route moving past a flare protected by an old fixed pin. (easily backed up)

Location 

In between Cry of the Gerbil and Neutron Star.

Protection 

Thin. Bring lots of 00 and 0 Metolius sized cams and your quiver of RPs. 0-2 Metolius cams for the opening finger crack. There are four old, slightly manky pins on the route and each can easily be backed up by small (but bomber) gear placements.


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By Shelton Hatfield
From: Austin, Texas
Jun 25, 2014

The pins seemed alright to me. However I do agree that backing them up is worthwhile and easy enough to do
By Jon Rhoderick
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

All the pins have been pulled, and replaced with 3 bolts. There was a debate whether to retain the lowest bolt, but maybe 3 inches below the pin placement is a very bomber nut placement. I have fallen on both the pin and the nut, I felt a little more comfortable on the nut. Kent said that the 1st pin came out with 2 or 3 taps, another pin snapped it's head off and is still insitu. Because there are only 3 bolts I think this climb retains a lot of the excitement it had when it had pins. This aint no spurt climb.

I'm making a case for this being solid 12a. That's the original rating (and in the Thesenga guide), only being downgraded for sticky rubber (for comparison Sunshine was downgraded too, then upgraded). Climbing through to the first bolt is about 5.11b/c, far harder than Crime Wave, maybe not as stopper as Crack-a-no-go but way more sustained and on smaller gear. From the last gear placement to the 3rd bolt I feel I'm pulling 3 11 or 11+ cruxes, with imperfect rests separating them. Definitely more stacked and with more tenuous rests than other 11+'s I have done or tried, and the cruxes are probably harder than many 12a's.

But I dunno, maybe its just hard 11d...
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 20, 2014

I've only been on it once, and can't speak too much to the grade, but almost sent first go and I don't usually do that on 12a. Also, wasn't Sunshine upgraded due to a key foothold breaking? (I think that scar on the left wall below/near the crux) I'm all for keeping rock climbing hard...