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New Wave
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Air and Pleasant Danger S 
Barking Spiders S 
Black Dog Crack S 
Dark Star S 
Daytripper, The S 
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 
Night Crawler S 
Paradox S 
Retrospade T,S 
Roaring Silence S 
Salley's Alley S 
Sam Spade T 
Schist Another Sport Climb S 
Short Wave S 
Smokestack S 
Strict Scrutiny S 
Ten of Spades S 
Vallee Daze S 
Weevil Knevil S 

Dark Star 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Justin Hayes & Ward Smith
Page Views: 1,263
Submitted By: Emile Mennin on Sep 23, 2010

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Be prepared to crimp and shred any skin you have. Beautiful face climbing on crimps, with little to no rests make this one of Rumney's most sustained sport routes. Power-endurance and skin are the key to sending.

Crimpy, sequential moves lead to a distinct crux, defined by sharp, painful crimps necessary to set up for the move out left (the crux). Stick this move, dead point up and right to one of the best crimps (and most fun moves on the route), clip and breathe, it isn't over. The remainder of the climb is delicate, pumpy and crimpy!

Location 

Right side of New Wave. This route climbs the dark streak to the right of Vallee Daze and left of Paradox (both, routes worthy of attention).

Protection 

bolts.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

This route is very easy to set up for working on TR or putting your draws on by climbing Black Dog Crack 10b to the left, so there really is no need for leaving fixed draws on this route, IMO. Black Dog makes a nice warm-up too.

This route is one of my favorites at Rumney due to it's technical nature. It is steeper than you might first think too!