A gully located right at Stairs Gulch. It is on the north side of the road, and consists of mainly trad routes with some bolted routes. Good anchors on most of the climbs make for easy descents. The climbs range from 5.6 to 5.12b. They mostly face the west with a bit of southerly exposure. So they tend to be warm. Poison oak can be a problem in the upper reaches. Some of the climbs are right on the stream and therefore wet in the spring.
Park at Stairs Gulch. (Just before Storm Mountain Picnic Area) Cross the stream at the gully and climb.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Dark Star Gully
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dark Star Gully:
The Wraith 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 75'
Fine Arete 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Karmic Whiplash 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 55'
Featured Route For Dark Star Gully
Karmic Whiplash 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dark Star Gully
If 12a/b is your standard, warm up on The Wraith, then test your karma on this. Karmic Whiplash opens up with technical and powerful moves on great rock past three bolts to a rest of sorts, then takes big flat holds leading left and up on easier but pumpy ground past three more bolts to chains. Slightly overhanging the whole way. Consider using a stick clip for the first bolt; a bone-snapping landing awaits the bold but careless. Unlike The Wraith, Karmic Whiplash’s bolts all look ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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