Dark Side of the Moon
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.9 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | ??? |
Page Views: | 1,690 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | jim.dangle on Nov 27, 2011 |
Admins: | Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
Start well left under the bolted face and climb up and to the right on a couple of thin edges to base of flake, then undercling and layback the flake to the top. The crux is probably getting fully onto the flake.
The flake is a cool feature that offers moves reminiscent of other (taller and better) climbs.
The flake is a cool feature that offers moves reminiscent of other (taller and better) climbs.
Location
The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. The climb ascends up and around the flake that is probably the most prominent feature on the cliff.
Protection
Bolted TR anchors.
I thought I remember this flake expanding a bit (a long time ago), but it felt pretty solid the last time I climbed it. It could be led, but you would have to place gear semi-blind and would be pretty strenuous. It would be good practice though for harder climbs maybe, but it is a fun top-rope.
I thought I remember this flake expanding a bit (a long time ago), but it felt pretty solid the last time I climbed it. It could be led, but you would have to place gear semi-blind and would be pretty strenuous. It would be good practice though for harder climbs maybe, but it is a fun top-rope.
6 Comments