Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
P-Wall
Select Route:
Black Streak S,TR 
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 
Direct Exposure T,S 
Dyno Dogs S 
Energy Crisis T 
Epidural T,S,TR 
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 
Free For All (Variation) S 
Garden Party S 
Hanging Teeth T 
Impacted Stool Crack T 
Indecent Exposure T,S 
Jump For Joy T,S 
Knee Surgery S 
La Leche S 
Leapin' Lizards T,S 
Letterman T 
Oh My! T,S,TR 
Out of Hangers S 
P-Crack T 
P-Wall Direct T 
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 
Pump Floyd T,S 
Route Canal T 
Rusty's Cave T 
Slime and Dine T,S 
Sofa King Great T,S 
Spring Route T 
Squeeze Job T 
Stage Fright T,S 

Dark Side of the Moon 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Knight, Theron Moses
Season: all
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: John Knight on Nov 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Dark Side of the Moon and Pump Floyd. Climb Dark S...

Description 

Start at the large chockstone in the gulley. Before stepping up to the ledge above the chockstone, place a 1" (+/-) cam in the big hole off to your right. Once you step up to the ledge and under the roof you can place a small nut or cam above your head so you can step up and clip the bolt above the overhang. Make the bolt protected mantle move and work your way up past 1 more bolt on your way to the anchors. The runout to the anchors is 5.6. Once you reach the top rap off or TR Dark Side (5.10) or Jeff's Crack (5.9). Both are left of Dark Side. The upper pitch has nothing harder than 5.6 but provides a nice way to get to the top of P-Wall. After you make the top of P-Wall, work your way up to Sunnyside (5.9) and cruise to the summit.

Location 

Starts on top of the very large chockstone lodged in the gulley. Go up over the roof. Yes, it's only 5.8!

Protection 

Two (2) bolts, plus small to medium cams for the lower pitch. The upper pitch can be protected w/one bolt and cams.


Photos of Dark Side of the Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Up, up, and away...
Up, up, and away...
Theron properly demonstrating that climbing really...
Theron properly demonstrating that climbing really...
Theron going over the roof!
Theron going over the roof!
Theron cleaning the pro that you place just before...
Theron cleaning the pro that you place just before...
Nothing but, well...butt.   btw, does he really ne...
Nothing but, well...butt. btw, does he really ne...

Comments on Dark Side of the Moon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Dec 1, 2008

Is this a new line, or is it Motor Mouth with a new name?
By Floyd Hayes
Jun 1, 2010

After discovering for ourselves that the first bolt on Oh My! was missing, my partner and I next checked out this climb. Again we were keenly disappointed to see that the first bolt had been chopped. We could see the second bolt, but not knowing whether any of the upper bolts were also chopped, we packed up and left. We were in a sour mood about not being able to climb two of our planned routes for the day, so we have a very, very low opinion of bolt choppers--to put it mildly.
By John Knight
Jun 11, 2010

There were 4 bolts on this climb. I recently replaced 2 of them. This changes the safety rating from a "G" to a "PG/R" rating. With a bit of gear this is still a great cilmb. I will post an updated topo soon. Go back and give it a try sometime.
By Bryan Carroll
From: Los Osos, CA
Jun 11, 2010

My partner Steve lead this yesterday and I followed, despite there only being two bolts for the leader, it was one of my favorite climbs. You can fit a small cam under the opening roof, or you can reach up and clip the first bolt. However, the roof is realativly easy due to the nature of the large holds. Great climb, and you can lead this to get to the 'pump floyd' anchors, another one of the most fun climbs on "the dark side" of P-wall.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Jan 10, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The second pitch is dirty and runout. Take some nuts to augment the one bolt on the second pitch. There are rap rings on the second pitch anchor. I would only do this second pitch again as a way to get to the top of P-Wall to access other climbs.
By John Knight
Jan 10, 2012

Each pitch is about 75' for a total of about 150'. Sometimes I climb Doggie Style to Garden Party then rap down from the Dark Side anchor to Top Rope Pump Floyd (Pump Floyd shares the Dark Side anchor).

Second pitch recommended only as a way to get to the top of P-Wall. It is dirty and slightly runout but you can find several cam and nut placements if you're creative. It used to have more bolts on it and was just dirty and not runout. But alas, now it's BOTH dirty and runout.

Good training for those interested in moving on to more adventurous climbs. If Dark Side's 2nd pitch isn't dirty and runout enough for you, go over and try The Grotto. Now THAT is dirty and runout (but only 5.6).