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Milky Way Wall
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Anti-Gravity S 
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Dark Matter S 
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Gamma Rays in Sector C S 
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Houston, We Have a Problem S 
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 
Milky Way S 
Right Stuff Variation, The S 
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Wormhole S 

Dark Matter 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Christian Burrell and Tristan Higbee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,158
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The sun in the eyes makes the crimps hard to see.

Description 

Another fantastic line!
Shares the same first clip as Milky Way but head up towards an obvious hole. Small finger jugs (a tad dirty, but cleaning up) leads to a steller steep upper headwall with small but very solid crimps.
The last real challenge (and probably the crux) is a deadpoint to a good hold near at the top. Get your feet high! When you hit this move you can't help but feel pretty darn good about yourself.
The route might be a bit over-bolted but at least you never really have to worry about taking a big fall.


Protection 

8 bolts and chains



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 12, 2008

I have personal issues with this climb. I don't like it. The first couple times I tried to redpoint it, holds broke off up high and I peeled. I don't like doing climbs more than once, and I essentially had to do this climb several times before I got it. Lame.

I definitely do NOT think it's worth 4 stars. I think it's good overall, and that the upper headwall is great. The bottom half is dirty and not super solid. Honestly, I'd give it 2.5 stars, but Christian would be mad at me, so I'm giving it 3.

The crux for me was up high -- definitely the long reach from crimps and bad feet to the jug.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 26, 2008

Tristan is just bitter...

By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
Jul 31, 2008

Tristan is just bitter :) This route is killer. I was all smiles flashing this super sick 11b.

By Darren Knezek
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I give it 4 stars for that kick-ass ending.

By aclimberdude
May 1, 2009

Cool route for sure. Really fun moves and it seems that it has cleaned up a bit, however still a little dirty, with traffic will clean up more. As for the grade, it is more like 10 something- 10c? Maybe I am getting stronger overnight...