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 ADVANCED
4. Moby Grape Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Hallow T 
Manhedral T 
Moby Grape T 
Moonshadow T 
Peppy's Face S 
Psyche Dike (Bradley Leblanc's unfinished variation) T 
Tip Trip T 
Union Jack T 
Vertigo T 
White Iceberg, The T 

Dark Hallow 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a A4+ R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a A4+ [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1981
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 981
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009

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Description 

Start by climbing right, next to the start of 'North by Southwest' make awkward moves right under clinging through and up to an inclining inside corner that faces south. Top of corner was desperate (A4+) because of ground fall potential. Think outside the box to get up it (smallest wires are important). Nice rock and I might have missed a better pro placement and gear has improved. It might be (A2) now. Probably can be free climbed but no chance for placing protection while free climbing. Get out the drill?
After corner go easily left under a large ceiling via crumbling rock crack to meet up with North Southwest’s second pitch belay ledge. Climb up North Southwest and move right to aid (A1) where two cracks intersect to create an X. This X marks the spot and is a landmark seen from below the cliff. The short crack goes onto North Southwest upper corner. Above corner belay. From here go right from North Southwest until you are on the right side of a tremendous house size block (4th class). Climb the far side of this block (gross bushy right facing corner) At the top of the block this climb ended at the belay below the Down East crux slab. I traversed right to down the goat path to climb down Wiessner's Dike. Then did one 75ft rappel to the ground. This climb became named 'Middle East' somehow. Could become a decent free climb directly to North Southwest upper 2nd pitch corner. It will need a lot of preset protection work. It finish right of Down East crux by staying with the crack maybe plausible.

Location 

Right of North Southwest and X marks the spot.

Protection 

many small wires, large and medium cams or hexes, a few knifeblades and a few small 1" angle pitons.


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