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Blasphemy Wall
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Dark Boy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jeff Pederson
Page Views: 1,650
Submitted By: Clay Rardon on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

super stellar climbing broken up into three sections.. the first being about 11b, second being the 13b section, and the last being the prize winning 12a that you are rewarded after climbing through the crux... If the last section were its own route it would be the best warm up at the gorge.. this route is awesome and kinda sporty!!


Protection 

120ft. of sport climbing bliss!



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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2014

I have read many times in print and been told from other climbers that Dark Boy is one of the best 5.13b's is the United States. The only thing that could improve this climb would be the setting (imagine if the Blasphemy Wall were in a peaceful wilderness than right next to a busy interstate highway).

The way the sections and their difficulties are dispersed remind me of the route Cote d'Azure at Rumney, New Hampshire. Beginning easy, followed by the business, then capped by what would be the best 5.12a at the entire area (not just the individual cliff) if the last section were on its own. Granted the routes differ tremendously in rock type and holds, but they both seem to have similar breakdowns.