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Dark Arts 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 1,255
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 13, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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JJ running a lap on the classic Dark Arts.

James ...

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Description 

Dark Arts is an endearing mid range .11 that will certainly keep your attention. Start out climbing up large ledges to a small pillar on the left and this is the start of the crack. Work up thin crack with large face holds. Pass a lone bolt, and continue working up large chunky, though mostly solid rock. Once you reach the large tan block, mantle up and the hard climbing begins. Do a hard stem move to access holds up and left of finger crack. Keep working up the near perfect stembox past cool face holds and good tips crack to the roof. At the roof, move right, and place a #2 Yellow TCU. Move straight up to large jug rail, and continue pulling jugs to a final left hand fingerlock, and the anchors below small roof with white splotches on the underside.

Classic climbing that gets better the more you get to know it.


Protection 

Double set to 1", single set to 2".



Photos of Dark Arts Slideshow Add Photo
Jake Dayley stemming up an incredible streaked wall in the amphitheater... <br /><a href='http://www.tamarahastie.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.tamarahastie.com</a>
Jake Dayley stemming up an incredible streaked wal...
JJ plugging in the last bit of gear.
JJ plugging in the last bit of gear.
the bomb-diggity crux piece....
the bomb-diggity crux piece....
q shoots jj on dark arts
q shoots jj on dark arts
love is not a strong enough word for how I feel about this climb....
love is not a strong enough word for how I feel ab...
Dan Foster easily onsighting the 2nd ascent of Dark Arts.
Dan Foster easily onsighting the 2nd ascent of Dar...
dark arts by jj.  perfect route, perfect name.
dark arts by jj. perfect route, perfect name.
Comments on Dark Arts Add Comment
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By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Just a really great climb! Starts out quite mellow (5.8ish), but very fun(and a good warm-up). The tan block mid-route is where the best stuff really starts and it ramps in difficulty from there. Fun, sustained moves to get set up under the roof and it all protects beautifully. A tricky sequence to get over the roof and to the jug rail, but fortunately the holds after the roof are all excellent(although don't expect the fight to be over until you actually clip the chains!).

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 11, 2012

Right on Tim. I love this pitch, and I am surprised it doesn't see more action.

By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 6, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

i was able to use my reach (6'3 ape) to make the roof moves feel pretty easy

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 18, 2013

Toast with Butter is correct. This is a tall boy special and was originally rated 5.10+, much to the guffaw of my shorter cronies.