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D'Arcy's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
30 Second Crack T,TR 
Cemetery Wall TR 
Darcy's Wall TR 
Darkness At Noon T,TR 
Death Leap 2000 TR 
Easy Overhang T,TR 
Last Gasp TR 
Ship's Prow TR 
Strawberry Fields TR 
Zig-Zag T 
Zschiesche's Roof T 

Darcy's Wall 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 1,432
Submitted By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on Jun 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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My first barefoot ascent in '71

Description 

A mega classic by any standard. Start slightly left of the corner and climb up a series of ramping edges towards the middle of the face. The crux is the last 2 moves.

Protection 

top rope


Photos of Darcy's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Placing the good ball-nut to protect the crux.  The sketchy pro from the previous photo is just below my feet.
Placing the good ball-nut to protect the crux. Th...
Progression up Darcy's Wall
Progression up Darcy's Wall
Small gear behind a hollow flake, and me glad for all of the top-rope practice that preceded this lead.  Also, the camera flash makes it look much brighter than it actually was.  Photo: Jason McKeefry.
Small gear behind a hollow flake, and me glad for ...
D to the I know, it isn't necessary here.
D to the I know, it isn't necessary here.
why not heel hook?
why not heel hook?

Comments on Darcy's Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 16, 2005

Dear Friends:

I came upon this website by accident, but it brought back memories. I was a high school wrestler from Homewood-Flossmoor H. S. in Illinois and visited Devils Lake with a teacher and group. I climbed Darcy in 1969. I remember the thinness of the holds. I had a new (now very old) pair of Royal Robbins climbing boots and was going up from a top anchor point (of course).

I still think of the climb and would like to visit again someday. A lot of year have passed. I live in Houston, Texas now, so I don't when that might be.

Of those attempting the climb that day, I think I was the only one to make it. We camped down by the lake and swam in the early evening. If there was a better way to spend part of one's youth during the summer, I don't know what else it might be.

Best to all who visit Devils Lake. Enjoy the climbing and swimming. Life's too short and enjoy places like this while you can.

Best, KRS
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If memory serves me right, like a lot of the climbs at the Lake, if you're tall this climb is a lot easier, especially after the delicate traverse from the right to the left.
By Tradoholic
Jun 25, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not too reachy, just lock off harder!

Gear is poor, got a small brassy in a crack next to the very hollow flake and some vertical nuts in the seam higher up.

I thought it was more "Last Gasp" than "Last Gasp"!
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Headpointed this last night via headlamp. I put a ball nut and a #0 C3 behind the flake which would have been good if it wasn't so hollow. There is a quite good but blind (while placing) ball nut placement right before the crux though.