Daniel Webster Highway
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A long moderate route up the leftmost of the large slabs on Mt. Webster (3,910'). This climb is located 100 yards left of the big central slab, home to the route Bore Tide.
This route offers cracks, flakes, and the occasional gear placement. Expect Whitehorse style run-outs throughout the climb. Two protection bolts were placed on pitch 5 on the lead. All pitches were equipped with ring anchors. Two 60M ropes are required for rappelling the route.
This low angled slab route has a great belay ledges and offers superb views of Crawford Notch. The granite is quality for the most part and has a nice alpine feel. The cliff is naturally pretty clean. The steeper crux section is short and the rest is moderate climbing.
All fixed protection was placed free on the lead with a hand drill.
Pitch 1: Start at the toe of the slab just right of the steeper section of cliff. Climb right of the tree filled gully at 5.5 or to the left of the gully up the big overlap at 5.6 R. Finish at the tree ledge above. Move the belay left to the tree below the obvious crack system on the slab above. 195' 5.5 PG-13
Pitch 2: Climb the wandering flaring crack getting gear when possible to a small ledge with bush's on it. Pull the small overlap off the ledge and regain a wide crack (maybe #5 or 6 cam?). Follow it to a small grass ledge with a ring anchor. 190' 5.5 PG-13
Pitch 3: Climb a short easy slab to gain a large left facing flake. Follow various flakes through the scoop. Run it out up a 5.3 slab to a ring anchor on a ledge. 190' 5.4 PG-13
Pitch 4: Continue up the easy slab to a tree ledge. Pull onto the steep slab (crux) and a gain a large right facing flake in the middle of the wall. Follow the flake until it ends. Angle right to another flake and continue straight up the rippled slab to a ring anchor. 190' 5.6 PG-13
Pitch 5: Step left off the anchor and climb straight up the excellent featured slab past two widely spaced bolts. Get gear in the cracks below the tree ledge and finish at a bolt/tree anchor. 195' 5.4 PG-13
Pitch 6: Pull the overlap and punch it up the slab with little protection to a ring anchor to the right of the bush's on top of the cliff. 120' 5.4 PG-13
The large "far left" slab On Mt. Webster
Standard rack to 3"
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 10, 2013
Nice!! A Chinette in on the f/a
By Robert Hall
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
We took P1 of "Webster's Way" which we felt "went" at about 5.4-5.5 if you move up and right "flowing" with the easy rock to the tree ledge, instead of "cutting back left and up (5.7) to the belay/rap anchor tree.
Later we did P1 of the "Highway" in an exploratory to look at the left side of the huge "Left Slab Area" to our right. Due to the rock quality, I'd rate the protection factor a bit lower than "PG-13", and more "R-ish". Webster's Way P1 is MUCH more solid.
P4 is probably 5.7 if you go up on the more polished rock directly below the bottom of the crack, but a few feet right the rock is more featured and easier. (5.5?)
By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
Jun 18, 2016
Did this one today. Fun route! Some comments:
P1: Has some rotten rock and a big flake is about to go with the lightest touch. Rest of the pitches are nice and solid. We could not find any rap station on tree ledge. Looked at every tree.
P2: The wide crack takes a #4 perfectly!
P4: For crux, if you go slightly left and back right, you can easily avoid the crux and the the whole route remains at 5.5 if you so desire.