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Upper Beach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Gold S 
Corona S 
Dangling Monkey T 
Go With The Flow T 
Moon Juice S 
Nurse Rathcet AKA Thai Phai S 
Pickpocket T 
Red Sky T,S 

Dangling Monkey 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Burcham, James Q. Martin
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,088
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Leah Sandvoss on the first pitch (5.10) of Swingin...

Description 

The DM starts off with a 75' first pitch of 5.10- climbing that gets you to below the roof. After you are all set, launch out into the steep crack and get your swing on! Now that I think about it, not sure if it has seen a ground to top anchor redpoint? Something to look into if you have the time...

Location 

Two routes left of the little tower.

Protection 

Double set. Chain anchors


Photos of Dangling Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James remembering how steep this thing is?
James remembering how steep this thing is?
Rock Climbing Photo: James getting started up the obvious steep crack!
James getting started up the obvious steep crack!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Swinging Monkey Phenomenon.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Swinging Monkey Phenomenon.

Comments on Dangling Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andre K
From: San Diego
Nov 27, 2010

If you are doing pitch 1 only:
5.10, 75 ft long
Gear: double set of Blue TCU to BD#2.
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Dec 1, 2011

first pitch is pretty sandbag for 10- Actually more like 11- but good! I used a full set of dbls to #2 camalot plus 1 #3. Scoped out the upper pitch for next time: looks like dbl #4 and a #5 would be useful. I'll be back!!

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