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Choose the fun 5.8 original start or the long continuous 11a direct start. From the shared anchor continue up a right facing corner that narrows down to tips. As the corner ends figure out the crux face climbing moves past the first bolt. Traverse, right, past a second bolt that leads to another thin crack with interesting moves to the anchor. A semi run out third pitch(5.9) gets you to the very interesting forth. Still a bit dirty, interesting features lead to then over what, from below, seems like an improbable roof. A runout though easy final 5.7/8 pitch ends at a cool summit ledge.
Located a ways left of Eagles Eyrie and just right of an unknown 5.11 route shown in the Reid guide
Pro to a #3 Camalot with extras from .1 to .75 Camalots. Also stoppers with extras in the small to med size are nice. Bring lots of draws if doing the 11a direct start, a full 60m pitch.
The original 5.8 start takes the finger crack thro...
BETA PHOTO: Three great longish routes
BETA PHOTO: Topo
|Comments on Dangling Chads
Jan 7, 2012
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Ron Skelton, 3/09
|By Austin Archer|
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013
This is a really great climb! Go Richter on the Gnar at the top of the corner bro brah!