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Dangling Chads 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Jeff Scheuerell, Ron Skelton, March 2009
Page Views: 733
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 21, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Three great longish routes
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Choose the fun 5.8 original start or the long continuous 11a direct start. From the shared anchor continue up a right facing corner that narrows down to tips. As the corner ends figure out the crux face climbing moves past the first bolt. Traverse, right, past a second bolt that leads to another thin crack with interesting moves to the anchor. A semi run out third pitch(5.9) gets you to the very interesting forth. Still a bit dirty, interesting features lead to then over what, from below, seems like an improbable roof. A runout though easy final 5.7/8 pitch ends at a cool summit ledge.


Location 

Located a ways left of Eagles Eyrie and just right of an unknown 5.11 route shown in the Reid guide


Protection 

Pro to a #3 Camalot with extras from .1 to .75 Camalots. Also stoppers with extras in the small to med size are nice. Bring lots of draws if doing the 11a direct start, a full 60m pitch.



Photos of Dangling Chads Slideshow Add Photo
Dangling Chads with the obvious, shaded, crux, 2nd pitch corner
Dangling Chads with the obvious, shaded, crux, 2nd...
The original 5.8 start takes the finger crack through the roof. The 11a direct start leads to, then stays right of, the small diagonaling right facing corner.
The original 5.8 start takes the finger crack thro...
Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
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By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Ron Skelton, 3/09

By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013

This is a really great climb! Go Richter on the Gnar at the top of the corner bro brah!

By SirTobyThe3rd
Mar 19, 2014

Get down with a 70 or two ropes?

By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 20, 2014

2 ropes to get down. If you only do P1 you can get down with 1 rope.
Last time on it P1 and 2 were very clean but with the little traffic most routes at P-Line get some veg may have grown. The first 2 pitches are awesome and doing the whole route although not the same quality as the first 2 is a great little adventure. Would love to hear if you do it. Both starts are good.

By david s wilson
Apr 8, 2014

Really great first two pitches of clean climbing - both solid for the grades. Bring nuts for P2. We were running out of light and stopped at the top of P4, which was already more crispy adventure climbing compared too the first pitches.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 8, 2014

Nice David, about time someone got on that route. And yes the upper pitches do not compare to the first 2... fun adventure above non the less.