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This is one of Cape Ann's best crack climbs! With a awesome layback on overhanging red granite, make your way up to the top. The crux is where the crack runs out. Make a big reach for the top and mantle.
This crack is in the center of south wall, to the right of an old, bolted, aid traverse Rusty Nail
There is a single bolt next to a flake the is good for a second/third placement for your top anchor. This line could be bouldered bu the crux is the top out mantle move which felt more comfortable on a TR.
By Tim McGivern
Nov 30, 2012
Great climb! Please don't bolt this too. That little cliff can be protected with pads. This particular crux can be protected with one well placed piece near the top of the crack.