Danger  5.10a R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Alan Cattabraga 1988 Submitted By:  lee hansche on May 24, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Loose? Don't think it will break from a fall but m...

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Description 

This route is listed in the guidebook but is almost never done. The guide gives it an X rating meaning you could die climbing it if you fall (or pull off the huge loose flake in this case). I finally got around to climbing it today and didn't feel it lived up to the hype as far as danger goes. It was however VERY enjoyable climbing, if a bit short. I'll give it an R rating for the hollow flake but if you can climb gently and place gear in the right spots you should be fine. I'm not recommending it for just anyone but if your likelihood of falling on a straight forward 10a is low and you like a bit of spice, go for it.

Just left of the start of 3 easy pieces, climb a corner with a good but tricky red camalot for pro. Move up to a nice ledge and contemplate the crux flake. I placed a couple finger size pieces close to where the fake connects to the rock where it felt pretty solid. Move up in to under cling locks and reach up to the top of the flake for edges that get better the more you move right. You can get good gear here and top it out.

Location 

Left of Three Easy Pieces 5.10a....

Protection 

Trad gear. Belay from trees.

Photos of Danger Slideshow

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Me leading out the loose flake on Danger 5.10a R	top of Danger	Jeff underclinging the "death flake", better name ...
Jeff on the very "trady" start :)	Jakob "danger" montoya climbs Danger