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Upper Darth Vadar
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Victim of Love S 

Danger 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Cattabraga 1988
Page Views: 736
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007

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Jeff underclinging the "death flake", better name ...

Description 

This route is listed in the guidebook but is almost never done. The guide gives it an X rating meaning you could die climbing it if you fall (or pull off the huge loose flake in this case). I finally got around to climbing it today and didn't feel it lived up to the hype as far as danger goes. It was however VERY enjoyable climbing, if a bit short. I'll give it an R rating for the hollow flake but if you can climb gently and place gear in the right spots you should be fine. I'm not recommending it for just anyone but if your likelihood of falling on a straight forward 10a is low and you like a bit of spice, go for it.

Just left of the start of 3 easy pieces, climb a corner with a good but tricky red camalot for pro. Move up to a nice ledge and contemplate the crux flake. I placed a couple finger size pieces close to where the fake connects to the rock where it felt pretty solid. Move up in to under cling locks and reach up to the top of the flake for edges that get better the more you move right. You can get good gear here and top it out.


Location 

Left of Three Easy Pieces 5.10a....


Protection 

Trad gear. Belay from trees.



Photos of Danger Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff on the very "trady" start :)
Jeff on the very "trady" start :)
Loose? Don't think it will break from a fall but may expand.  Probably not worth finding out though....
Loose? Don't think it will break from a fall but m...
Me leading out the loose flake on Danger 5.10a R
Me leading out the loose flake on Danger 5.10a R
top of Danger
top of Danger
Jakob "danger" montoya climbs Danger
Jakob "danger" montoya climbs Danger
Comments on Danger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 23, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X

I've looked at this one too, maybe I'll do it someday with a top-belay.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 8, 2011

Good training for Cannon, if you do 100 laps in a day.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 23, 2012

Just updated the description after me and some friends climbed it today... Actually quite fun climbing. If it wasn't loose, dirty and trad it would be quite popular haha... Not a route for everyone but i had fun...

By S. Neoh
Jun 23, 2012

I had considered soloing thru the dodgy part. Is there a fixed anchor at the top?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 24, 2012

no fixed anchor... really i think gear would hold fine if placed mindfully...