Danger Boy 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Gould, Agulara, Brannon, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006 |
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Matt Grieger, of Ventura, on Danger Boy (5.11a).
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Description Sustained and interesting climbing on excellent rock. One 5.11a move yields to sustained 5.9+ climbing. Much of the climbing involves long reaches (and may be somewhat height-dependent).
Catch your breath on the large ledge at midpoint before tackling the pumpy and exposed headwall above (5.9+).
Protection 7 bolts to anchors.
The opening moves are awkward and unprotected. Many climbers will benefit from a stick-clip. The crux itself is very well protected. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. Be careful.
Trying to pull the crux on Danger Boy. Photo by Ja...
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Marisa Fienup works through the steep final sectio...
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Heather near the middle of the route
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 22, 2006
| An excellent variation for the non-5.11 leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR. |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 30, 2006
| The cold shut anchors for this line are in need of replacement. I was there over christmas and both bolts wobbled in there respective holes. The old SMC hanger above looks alright. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 5, 2007
| The anchor atop Danger Boy consists of two solid 1/2" x 5" Rawl-syle expansion bolts with open shuts backed up by an additional expansion bolt equipped with a chain.
The two lower bolts now sport new Fixe Supershuts. |
By Joe Dondero
From: Isla Vista, CA
Apr 11, 2010
| Was on this route yesterday and noticed that a hold had been pulled off at the crux. It's the left hand pinch used to get to the ledge at the second bolt. It seems like there is still a good hold there despite the hold being removed. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 5, 2011
| I also noticed what Joe mentioned. The decisive hold has broken off at the crux. The route now feels 11b/11c to me. Still just a one-move wonder though. |
By Alex DeGolia
Mar 10, 2013
| Did this on TR after a sketchy traverse over from the top of Stuart's Rig (not recommended - go up the crack right of the roof if you want to end at this anchor). Don't know what it was like prior to a broken hold, but felt like more than one 5.11 move in the bottom 1/3 of the route. After that, all beautiful sloping jugs into a great finger crack. |
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