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Wheeler Gorge
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Unsorted Routes:

Danger Boy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gould, Agulara, Brannon, 1995
Page Views: 2,272
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Trying to pull the crux on Danger Boy. Photo by Ja...

Description 

Sustained and interesting climbing on excellent rock. One 5.11a move yields to sustained 5.9+ climbing. Much of the climbing involves long reaches (and may be somewhat height-dependent).

Catch your breath on the large ledge at midpoint before tackling the pumpy and exposed headwall above (5.9+).

Protection 

7 bolts to anchors.

The opening moves are awkward and unprotected. Many climbers will benefit from a stick-clip. The crux itself is very well protected. Clipping the 6th bolt is a little spooky. Be careful.


Photos of Danger Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexander B pulls the crux of Danger Boy, at Wheel...
Alexander B pulls the crux of Danger Boy, at Wheel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexander B on Danger Boy at Wheeler Gorge.
Alexander B on Danger Boy at Wheeler Gorge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie works through the crux of Danger Boy, at Whe...
Katie works through the crux of Danger Boy, at Whe...
Rock Climbing Photo: accidently posted this but actually a picture on e...
accidently posted this but actually a picture on e...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heather near the middle of the route
Heather near the middle of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Grieger, of Ventura, on Danger Boy (5.11a).
Matt Grieger, of Ventura, on Danger Boy (5.11a).
Rock Climbing Photo: Marisa Fienup works through the steep final sectio...
Marisa Fienup works through the steep final sectio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Redpointing danger boy on my birthday
Redpointing danger boy on my birthday

Comments on Danger Boy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 22, 2006

An excellent variation for the non-5.11 leader: climb the first 5 bolts of Stu Boy (extending the fifth bolt) and finish up the crack towards Danger Boy's anchor (either placing a small piece of gear or extending the 7th bolt of Danger Boy). Only 5.9 and good for setting a TR.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 30, 2006

The cold shut anchors for this line are in need of replacement. I was there over christmas and both bolts wobbled in there respective holes. The old SMC hanger above looks alright.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 5, 2007

The anchor atop Danger Boy consists of two solid 1/2" x 5" Rawl-syle expansion bolts with open shuts backed up by an additional expansion bolt equipped with a chain.

The two lower bolts now sport new Fixe Supershuts.
By Joe Dondero
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Apr 11, 2010

Was on this route yesterday and noticed that a hold had been pulled off at the crux. It's the left hand pinch used to get to the ledge at the second bolt. It seems like there is still a good hold there despite the hold being removed.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 5, 2011

I also noticed what Joe mentioned. The decisive hold has broken off at the crux. The route now feels 11b/11c to me. Still just a one-move wonder though.
By Alex DeGolia
Mar 10, 2013

Did this on TR after a sketchy traverse over from the top of Stuart's Rig (not recommended - go up the crack right of the roof if you want to end at this anchor). Don't know what it was like prior to a broken hold, but felt like more than one 5.11 move in the bottom 1/3 of the route. After that, all beautiful sloping jugs into a great finger crack.
By Mike Stearns
Apr 15, 2014

To me, this crux (single move) felt harder than Silent Mind.
By Justine Jenkins
Dec 8, 2015

I just read the above comments and it all makes a lot more sense now. At 5'2," I found the crux to be a lot harder than lla, but I guess it's because a key hold broke off. This is still a great route though.

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