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Crazy Horse Buttress
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Dangeours Joy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 21, 2011

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Climbing Dangerous Joy
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the first lines to be bolted, it's such an obvious line. One of the best routes at Crazy Horse. A short scramble will lead you to the first bolt. The first section is a short (4 bolt) slightly over hanging finger crack. The holds are huge, though can take a while to find them. The climb has great flow and as roll from dynamic move to move. A slightly tricky mantle will lead to a huge no hands rest. It's a ledge with enough room for an arm chair. Make the most of it. The second part of the climb follows the line of tufas/stalactites and traverses under the large bulge to reach the anchors. A slightly awkward move off the ledge makes this perhaps the hardest move on the climb.


Location 

Super obvious line immediately to the right of the ladder that leads into the archway


Protection 

10 bolts, 1 thread



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By Mike O'Mara
Dec 1, 2013

One of the best routes I did in Thailand. Head right and clip a thread when you hit the giant stalactite.