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Crazy Horse Buttress
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Dangeours Joy 

5.11a

   
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Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 21, 2011

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Climbing Dangerous Joy

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the first lines to be bolted, it's such an obvious line. One of the best routes at Crazy Horse. A short scramble will lead you to the first bolt. The first section is a short (4 bolt) slightly over hanging finger crack. The holds are huge, though can take a while to find them. The climb has great flow and as roll from dynamic move to move. A slightly tricky mantle will lead to a huge no hands rest. It's a ledge with enough room for an arm chair. Make the most of it. The second part of the climb follows the line of tufas/stalactites and traverses under the large bulge to reach the anchors. A slightly awkward move off the ledge makes this perhaps the hardest move on the climb.


Location 

Super obvious line immediately to the right of the ladder that leads into the archway


Protection 

10 bolts, 1 thread