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Dancing With The Devils After Dark
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A3-4 R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in South and East Faces
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Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bittersweet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R |
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Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Delta I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Let Me Go Wild T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Phillip's Retreat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Recidivism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walt Bailey Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Window, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | June 2006 by Nate ChossMonkey and Bigwally |
| Page Views: | 2,585 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Frank Sanders on Nov 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
The Steepest Face of Devils Tower is the South West Face. It features extremely thin and shallow cracks, only one ledge on the entire face and numerous overhangs.This route is one crack to the right of the CENTENNIAL route. It was first climbed by Nate Chossmonkey and Bigwally in June, 2006. It was a 22 hour effort, from start to finish...and an Excellent Route !!
Pitch 1. A3+/A4- (160 ft.) Nail this crack for a long rope length, until it widens, and allows You a Great Belay, just below the left-most of the twin roofs. We used 40 KnifeBlades (35 tied-off) and a handful of RURPS and BEAKS. The anchors are Very Secure, long Lost Arrows and Baby Angles. One heck of a Fine Pitch.
Pitch 2. A2 (~140 ft.)Nail around the left side of the left-most roof and continue upwards to where a Good Anchor can be set. As the crack is both wider and deeper now, the aiding is Fun and not very demanding.
Pitch 3. A2,5.8 (~140 ft.)Aid a short distance until the crack widens and allows free climbing (5.8) to the Tower Top. This pitch will work Ya !!
Pitch 1. A3+/A4- (160 ft.) Nail this crack for a long rope length, until it widens, and allows You a Great Belay, just below the left-most of the twin roofs. We used 40 KnifeBlades (35 tied-off) and a handful of RURPS and BEAKS. The anchors are Very Secure, long Lost Arrows and Baby Angles. One heck of a Fine Pitch.
Pitch 2. A2 (~140 ft.)Nail around the left side of the left-most roof and continue upwards to where a Good Anchor can be set. As the crack is both wider and deeper now, the aiding is Fun and not very demanding.
Pitch 3. A2,5.8 (~140 ft.)Aid a short distance until the crack widens and allows free climbing (5.8) to the Tower Top. This pitch will work Ya !!
Location
The Steepest Face on Devils Tower is the South West. The entire face features only one ledge, numerous roofs and distinctly tight and shallow cracks. It has long been either Appealing or Appalling, depending on Your Perspective. This route takes the crack just right of CENTENNIAL. Looking at the line from the Tower Trail, You really can't determine if the crack of the 1st Pitch is actually all there, or if it quits. Up close and personal with it, You really still can't tell if or when it might quit. We found that the crack is continuous...but just Barely.
Hike up the Boulder Field and across the South West Shoulder. Finding the Start is the Easy Part.!!!
Hike up the Boulder Field and across the South West Shoulder. Finding the Start is the Easy Part.!!!
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