Dancing With Chaos
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A fun pitch of WI4 leads to a good belay ledge on the right, at the base of the first steep pillar.
The second pitch climbs through several vertical sections of mostly good ice, but it can be hollow at times. After about 40 meters, the difficulty eases off, but the ice gets thinner at the top out.
Park 6.8k from the David Thompson Highway intersection, where a small drainage comes down from the right. Hike up the drainage about 1000 feet, until it intersects a larger drainage coming in from the right. At this point, cross and head up the steep slope, eventually trending left.
As you continue working your way through the pines up and left, you will eventually see the route. Continue up and left through the pines and alders until you are on the right side of the Chaos drainage. Cross this drainage and continue up the left side to the base of a 5m ice step. Climb the ice and continue up the gully to the base of the route. An hour forty five in good conditions. Lots of snow, much longer.
Screws for protection and belay anchors, and some chord for rap anchors.
There is a large block about 25' back from the top of the route, that can be slung for a rappel anchor. The ice is generally thin at the top.
Looking down the first pitch
Kris Gorny on the steeps.
Dave Rone at the base of Dancing with Chaos. Novem...
Dave Rone climbing the first pitch of Dancing with...
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