Dancing Madly Backwards
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BETA PHOTO: below Dancing Madly Backwards
Really great lower angle thin moves on the lower half lead to a couple of thin crack moves around to the right. Then a rest and easy climbing up to the roof . From here you go straight over the roof onto rough somewhat chossy rock above with some strong moves then eases to the top.
At the far left end of the Orange Sunshine section. The pillar with the roof 2/3rds up just to the right of Western Front. Start from atop a couple of boulders where the belayer should stand.
Just some QDs.
Oct 9, 2011
This route originally went up the crack to the right of the recent bolt line. There was one bolt below the roof and one above. The rest of the route took gear.
FA: Ed Mosshart and Andy Fitz, April, 1989
From: Tacoma, WA
Oct 9, 2011
The bolted direct start was added in 2008 and is intended to be independent of the original start. FA Andy Fitz & Ed Mosshart. The two starts join at an easy mantle where a thin crack corner (original start) and an arete (direct start) meet. We reached the mantle without bailing to the thin crack as described above. Doing it this way involves a .10a slab/arete move with a bolt right in your face. The original start (bouldery ~.10c crux) has no bolts and can still be done on gear. If you begin via the original start, you'll only have one more bolt to clip now than in 1989.