Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6
|523 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 750 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.6 [details]|
|FA: ||John Glime Paul Ross (Alt Leads) Sept 8th 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Sep 21, 2008|
Silhouette of climber top of pitch 4. Scorpion sla...
Located in Spotted Wolf Canyon.A low grade route with some nice situations.The climb was named after a Bruce Springsteen song when we met up with a chap at the trail head with a guitar, asked by one of the party if he knew any songs by Bruce, he immediately bust into Dancin' the Dark. Quite appropriate! I guess to on-sighting a new slab climb.
P1). Start at the foot of the ridge. Climb an easy slab to where it steepens,climb past two bolts to double anchors. 200' 5.5.
P2).Continue around a big block then up the ridge keeping to the right,one bolt and some cam protection to double anchors. 200'5.5
P3).Keep to the right edge passed an exposed move, Natural pro to cam belay on big ledge to the left.200' 5.5.
P4).Follow the edge passed one bolt to double anchor belay at the top of the slab climb Scorpion that comes up from the left.150' 5.6.
Descent . Two raps down Scorpion then 4th class down the Amphitheater slabs.
Walk through Little Spotted Wolf Canyon almost to its end . Just past a massive slab ampiththeatre with two caves at its top the low angled ridge is to the right.
Several cams from 1/4" to 4". Slings .Two 60m ropes.
|Photos of Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 Slideshow
Climbers top of first pitch.Photo by Jaynee West (...
John on first pitch.
John near top of pitch 4.
A)Scorpian Slab 5.9-.. B) Dancing in the Dark 5.6
|Comments on Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 23, 2008
This route ended too soon. It was suppose to keep following the ridge to the top, but we ran into a big sandstone crevasse. The last pitch puts you on the top of Super Crack of the Reef. You can set up a top rope, or just admire that beautiful crack.
Don't mind the first few shitty bolts on this route, they're solid, enough! That's what happens when you forget the blow tube in the truck.