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Dances with Clams 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Heins, Pete Keane, 1991
Page Views: 1,249
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 3, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Description 

Given 10a in the 92 Watt's guide, this route has continued to lose some holds since then, and is a bit harder now. Overall, the rock on the route now feels pretty solid. Wide edge moves lead to a tricky overhung finish on pockets and edges just before the anchors.


Location 

On a short pillar just off the Misery Ridge/Red Wall trail, below Bill's Flake. The route on the right side of the pillar.


Protection 

Bolts (aprox. 4). Rap anchors.



Photos of Dances with Clams Slideshow Add Photo
Dances with Clams follows the chalk up the right side of this pillar.
Dances with Clams follows the chalk up the right s...
Jules showing her dance moves on Dances with Clams
Jules showing her dance moves on Dances with Clams
Rehanah on Dances With Clams.
Rehanah on Dances With Clams.
Comments on Dances with Clams Add Comment
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By grizz
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun route that I found to be somewhat tricky to start and finish. Jugs through the middle. I'd give it 3 stars if it were a little longer.

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 14, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This route is fun jug climbing to a somewhat hard move right below the chains.

By Nate Tack
Mar 29, 2010

Climbed this route on Saturday skipping the bolts and placing natural gear. Makes for a fun gear pitch, too bad the bolts are already there :-(

Gear beta. Micro brass nut down low (sort of useless once you get going. ) Slight run-out to the side-pull flake where 2x Green C3s go in, these cams are not great but you can double them up and feel sort of good about it. Climb below bulge and stick bomber #2 BD in the horizontal and go to the anchors.

-Nate

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

65 feet? LAWL!!! More like 40.

By T Banch
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Definitely a little short but still totally worth doing! Plenty of fun moves. Crux comes right past the last bolt, and right past the overhang, which made it feel totally safe. I felt more comfortable leading this route than some slabby routes of an easier grade.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Still 10a despite any "missing holds" but is a great warmup romp on this wall.