Dance with the Devil 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Bernard Wolfe, Maurice Reed - 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Mekolites on Dec 22, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Dance
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Description Start to the right of a large crack (Penchant). Undercling and crimp up past a couple of bolts to a bit of broken rock. Decipher the moves wandering left and then right of bolt line to the anchors.
Location The right side of the "Cop Out" wall. I believe the only fully bolted line on the right hand side.
Protection Bolts and anchors.
| Comments on Dance with the Devil |
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By sammy raviv
Dec 30, 2010
| the FA was done by Bernard Wolfe and Maurice Reed circa 1986. |
By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Dec 30, 2010
| may have fixed gear that needs updating
tree in right edge of pic seems to be when the route is |
By tom crocker
Jan 15, 2011
| Where does this route go? An '81 topo showing Dance With the Devil, FA by "Smith", seems to show a different line. Wondering if the bolted line is a different climb and "Dance" is more right. Help please. |
By sammy raviv
Jan 25, 2011
| Tom that is intriguing..hmmm. |
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 25, 2011
| Supposedly "Dance" was a trad line that was retro-bolted. I noticed very little if any gear on this route... |
By sammy raviv
Jan 26, 2011
| OK.. after further discussion with Bernard and based on my vague memory of the FA the right most bolted route on this wall is a Mark Cole route that goes somewhere in the 12b/c range. Name escapes me. How does that sound? Anyone?? |
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.11
| I don't know the history/route names, but the crux of this line can't be in the mid twelve range. I dogged it badly, but it's definately mid 11....maybe 11+ in 100 degrees. |
By sammy raviv
Feb 26, 2012
| I stand corrected. And after recently doing this route I agree with the 11b/c rating. |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 10, 2013
| This will feel 12b/c at the 4th bolt if you go the wrong way, but definitely mid-11 if done correctly. Bolts 3 and 4 both made the route confusing. They are definitely several feet off the climbing line. |
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