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Dance with the Devil 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bernard Wolfe, Maurice Reed - 1986
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 22, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Dance

Description 

Start to the right of a large crack (Penchant). Undercling and crimp up past a couple of bolts to a bit of broken rock. Decipher the moves wandering left and then right of bolt line to the anchors.


Location 

The right side of the "Cop Out" wall. I believe the only fully bolted line on the right hand side.


Protection 

Bolts and anchors.



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By sammy raviv
Dec 30, 2010

the FA was done by Bernard Wolfe and Maurice Reed circa 1986.

By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Dec 30, 2010

may have fixed gear that needs updating

tree in right edge of pic seems to be when the route is

By tom crocker
Jan 15, 2011

Where does this route go? An '81 topo showing Dance With the Devil, FA by "Smith", seems to show a different line. Wondering if the bolted line is a different climb and "Dance" is more right. Help please.

By sammy raviv
Jan 25, 2011

Tom that is intriguing..hmmm.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 25, 2011

Supposedly "Dance" was a trad line that was retro-bolted. I noticed very little if any gear on this route...

By sammy raviv
Jan 26, 2011

OK.. after further discussion with Bernard and based on my vague memory of the FA the right most bolted route on this wall is a Mark Cole route that goes somewhere in the 12b/c range. Name escapes me. How does that sound? Anyone??

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I don't know the history/route names, but the crux of this line can't be in the mid twelve range. I dogged it badly, but it's definately mid 11....maybe 11+ in 100 degrees.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jun 7, 2011

Definitely not 12b/c...

By sammy raviv
Feb 26, 2012

I stand corrected. And after recently doing this route I agree with the 11b/c rating.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 10, 2013

This will feel 12b/c at the 4th bolt if you go the wrong way, but definitely mid-11 if done correctly. Bolts 3 and 4 both made the route confusing. They are definitely several feet off the climbing line.