Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Select Route:
(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) 
(un-named) 5.7 arete 
5.8 Corner 
Banana Route 
Bird's Nest Crack 
Black Magic 
Butter D Licious 
Chimney Route 
City Of Worms 
Cloudy Day 
Dance with the Devil 
Dead Reckoning 
Easy Street 
Exit Stage Right 
Flight of the Swallows 
Full Moon Bar B Que 
Golden Arch 
Golden Arches 
Graham's Crack 
Hob Knob 
Hot Steele 
Hot Wing 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge 
Man Overboard 
Mean Lean 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) 
Minnie Driver 
Modern Day Pirates 
Mystery Slab 
New Ideal 
no name (on Wolf Wall) 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The 
Polar Express 
project on Wolf Wall 
Psycho Killer 
Putting Out the Vibe 
Renegade Trad 
Scooter Girl 
Song of the Cows 
Steele Head 
Stepping Out 
Sugar Magnolia 
Suspended Animation 
Three Pitch 
Tornado on your Birthday 
Uncertain Return 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 
unnamed trad on wolf wall 
Walk the Line 
Welcome to Steele 
Wendy's Finger Crack 

Dance with the Devil 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bernard Wolfe, Maurice Reed - 1986
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 22, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Start to the right of a large crack (Penchant). Undercling and crimp up past a couple of bolts to a bit of broken rock. Decipher the moves wandering left and then right of bolt line to the anchors.


The right side of the "Cop Out" wall. I believe the only fully bolted line on the right hand side.


Bolts and anchors.

Comments on Dance with the Devil Add Comment
Show which comments
By sammy raviv
Dec 30, 2010

the FA was done by Bernard Wolfe and Maurice Reed circa 1986.

By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Dec 30, 2010

may have fixed gear that needs updating

tree in right edge of pic seems to be when the route is

By tom crocker
Jan 15, 2011

Where does this route go? An '81 topo showing Dance With the Devil, FA by "Smith", seems to show a different line. Wondering if the bolted line is a different climb and "Dance" is more right. Help please.

By sammy raviv
Jan 25, 2011

Tom that is intriguing..hmmm.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 25, 2011

Supposedly "Dance" was a trad line that was retro-bolted. I noticed very little if any gear on this route...

By sammy raviv
Jan 26, 2011

OK.. after further discussion with Bernard and based on my vague memory of the FA the right most bolted route on this wall is a Mark Cole route that goes somewhere in the 12b/c range. Name escapes me. How does that sound? Anyone??

From: The Deeper South
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I don't know the history/route names, but the crux of this line can't be in the mid twelve range. I dogged it badly, but it's definately mid 11....maybe 11+ in 100 degrees.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jun 7, 2011

Definitely not 12b/c...

By sammy raviv
Feb 26, 2012

I stand corrected. And after recently doing this route I agree with the 11b/c rating.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 10, 2013

This will feel 12b/c at the 4th bolt if you go the wrong way, but definitely mid-11 if done correctly. Bolts 3 and 4 both made the route confusing. They are definitely several feet off the climbing line.