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Shovel Point
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Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 7,606
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006

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Divesh Bhatt on Dance.

Description 

This is a large slab that contains four different variations listed from climbers left to right. Don't forget your camera, this route allows great views of the climber below set against the turquoise backdrop of Lake Superior. Because of its high quality, closer proximity to the parking lot, and variability in difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbs at Shovel Point. #1 (5.7) climb the inside corner. #2 (5.8) climb the left side of the face using the small crack and other hold. #3 (5.10b/c) climb the middle of the face using smaller holds. #4 (5.10d) climb the right side of the face if you are lucky enough to find any holds. I usually set up one rope to climb #1 and #2 and another rope to climb #3 and #4.

Location 

This route is located about 15 yards past the wooden lookout where Palisade Head should be visible.

Protection 

Park service installed enormous bolts, please use these to say the trees whenever possible. You can also fit a brown tri-cam in the drilled test holes. As with all Shovel Point routes bring a lot of webbing.


Photos of Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of the large bolts found at the top of the...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of the large bolts found at the top of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nodin on sugar plum
Nodin on sugar plum
Rock Climbing Photo: Anna Schrage on a side view of Dance of the Sugar ...
Anna Schrage on a side view of Dance of the Sugar ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin Chapman and Alicia Hudelson on two of the v...
Justin Chapman and Alicia Hudelson on two of the v...
Rock Climbing Photo: Many route options exist and several nice landings...
BETA PHOTO: Many route options exist and several nice landings...
Rock Climbing Photo: Repel to the start Thomas Durfee getting off repel...
BETA PHOTO: Repel to the start Thomas Durfee getting off repel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marielle rapping down the side of the climb
Marielle rapping down the side of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott on "dance"
Scott on "dance"
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob - Dancing down. Gives a pretty good picture of...
Rob - Dancing down. Gives a pretty good picture of...
Rock Climbing Photo: So everyone has the same shot.  Big Deal.  It's be...
So everyone has the same shot. Big Deal. It's be...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the rappel.
On the rappel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying the 5.8 variation.
BETA PHOTO: Trying the 5.8 variation.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Crain-flor finishing his ascent on the top cr...
Nick Crain-flor finishing his ascent on the top cr...

Comments on Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This has been a popular climb for at least 2 decades. A great slab with a great setting and backdrop- Regardless of the grade, it is worth climbing. Just get there early in the AM to beat the boyscout troups to it!
By Brian Weinstein
Jul 15, 2007

A classic North Shore pitch.
By seagreene
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 15, 2014

Using the 2 giant bolt anchors, climb the climber's left dihedral for a 5.7, move out towards the face for 5.8-9 (finishing near the dihedral), or move all the way to very thin cracks on climber's right for a 10+ face climb.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Oct 27, 2015

Is this route leadable on modern gear (micronuts/cams, ballnuts, etc) at a reasonably safe Pg-13 level?

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