Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries  5.8

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Divesh Bhatt on Dance.

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Description 

This is a large slab that contains four different variations listed from climbers left to right. Don't forget your camera, this route allows great views of the climber below set against the turquoise backdrop of Lake Superior. Because of its high quality, closer proximity to the parking lot, and variability in difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbs at Shovel Point. #1 (5.7) climb the inside corner. #2 (5.8) climb the left side of the face using the small crack and other hold. #3 (5.10b/c) climb the middle of the face using smaller holds. #4 (5.10d) climb the right side of the face if you are lucky enough to find any holds. I usually set up one rope to climb #1 and #2 and another rope to climb #3 and #4.

Location 

This route is located about 15 yards past the wooden lookout where Palisade Head should be visible.

Protection 

Park service installed enormous bolts, please use these to say the trees whenever possible. You can also fit a brown tri-cam in the drilled test holes. As with all Shovel Point routes bring a lot of webbing.

Photos of Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries Slideshow

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Justin Chapman and Alicia Hudelson on two of the v...	Anna Schrage on a side view of Dance of the Sugar ...	BETA PHOTO: Repel to the start Thomas Durfee getting off repel...
Nodin on sugar plum	So everyone has the same shot. Big Deal. It's be...	BETA PHOTO: Trying the 5.8 variation.
Scott on "dance"	BETA PHOTO: Many route options exist and several nice landings...	Rob - Dancing down. Gives a pretty good picture of...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of the large bolts found at the top of the...