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 ADVANCED
Bolt Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Route T,TR 
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 
Dazed and Refused T 
Double Jam T,TR 
Meadow Muffin S,TR 
Sky Hook T 
Two to Tango T,TR 
Two-Nut Muffin T 

Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 3, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Slab, North Face
1 Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest 5.8...

Description 

A stiff, overhanging quartzite route with crack jamming, face climbing, and a bit of balancy stemming.

Start up easy, blocky terrain at the left of the Bolt Slabís North Face and reach the roof with two more-or-less hand-sized, parallel cracks. Follow these cracks up a bit and then bear right a little.

Clip two fixed pins and head farther right and up through overhanging, strenuous territory to the larger, broken crack. Follow this up and around to the east side and the anchors.


Location 

At the left side of the Bolt Slabís North Face. A roof with two parallel hand-cracks above is the obvious marker.


Protection 

Stoppers, small to medium cams, 2 fixed pins, slings for horns, hangers-and-rings anchors.



Comments on Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 9, 2008

Sheesh, you mean I have to go do it again? (Darren told me about his line, but he implied it was just a .10d variation straight up from the pins).

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 15, 2008

Hey Christian, looks like I don't have to go do it again. Darren K. says that the line I did is Pregnant Wildebeest; the line you did is a .10a called Two to Tango (at least that's what Pedersen, et al. always called it). I'll update the topo one of these days with it and with Darren's variant finish to Wildebeest (called Breech Baby, .10d).

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008

Despite the apparent confusion this route seems to be causing. I loved it! Fun crack climbing to a really cool upper face. I remember the upper face being a bit pumpy.