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Big Toe to Great Chimney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Psamead Ghostdance 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 644
Submitted By: Alex A on Sep 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Climber on Son of Great Chemney Direct, Red line D...


This was a old aid line, called Bivouac Ledge 5.7 A1, starts about 10ft left of the start of SOGC, climb up to ledge with boulder below overhang, pass overhang and move right to crack to Bivouac Ledge, then work your way to the top,


TR, Trad?

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By Tradoholic
Sep 9, 2010

Ah, I remember looking at this awhile ago wondering if there was a line. Did Tommy lead it?
By Alex A
Sep 10, 2010

Not sure about that, need to go to Tommy's trailer to find out, there is some gear at the crux, would be a great onsight vs working the shit out of it, then leading, has been lead old school 5.7 A1,

I think there maybe a harder var, climbing straight up vs moving right after roof,
By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010

Did anyone follow the cracks then split left before the ledge to follow more crack to the top? Or try the left side of that face entirely?
By Alex A
Sep 22, 2010

Are you talking about cracks right after the roof one go's straight up vs moving right, or is it higher, to my knowledge the left crack after the roof, has not been climbed or the face,
By pwags
Aug 28, 2012

This route was originally put up on top rope by Tommy & Rob Drysdale. The name was actually Psamead Ghostdance. Not sure why the revisionists at the CMC changed it, hopefully an innocent mistake. The original name combined mysticism from the Sitting Bull's Ghostdance with the Psamead from Jack Ness mythology, which unfortunately is lost in the name change.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Aug 28, 2012

Happy to change it Paul, back to it's original name.