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This is a south-facing slab. It is not a good place for sunny summer days, but it is great for cooler weather days. This consists of granite slabs with wide and thin cracks. At the time of posting, the rock is still flaky and mossy. It will clean up with time and ascents. It has a mixture of trad and sport climbing. Numerous anchors on top make it a great place for toproping.
This is about 3.65 miles up the canyon at about halfway between mile markers 29 and 30. There is a picnic area on the south side of the road where you can park. Also, there is a 40 mph sign right where the trail starts up. Approach with a fifteen minute hike up which begins along a very pretty creek. Follow trail up and across stream then about 5 minutes to where it goes back down to the stream at a very pretty rocky crossing. Go up the hill on the right side of the stream for 10 minutes to the rock.
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Grateful Head 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
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Grateful Head 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO : Lyons : ... : Dance Hall of the Dead
Climb up a slab, over 2 lumps, and past a little pine tree. The crux is working out toward the edge of the south-face on moderately thin feet, going up, and over.Hiro adds: After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope a...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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