||Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A3 [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Crawford, Leigh Nason, Pat Timson, 70 FFA: (P1 Short) Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien|
|Page Views: ||1,075|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008|
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Nicola Masciandaro at crux of P1, Dana's Arch (11b...
P1: Climb the thin pin-scarred arch past bolts to a two-bolt sling belay about 40 feet up (.11b). Either descend or continue to free climb through a thin corner past one bolt and possible gear placements to another sling belay before the pitch 2 bolt ladder (12 a/b).
People can aid this pitch as well.
The rest of the pitches are primarily aid:
P2: Bolt ladder and an A3 section.
P3: Mixed free and aid to a rightward trending ramp.
P4: A2 groove/crack that gets runoff from the top.
P1 is the very obvious left-curving arch encountered after passing the sport wall on the trail heading towards the Earwax wall. Descent from the upper pitches may require two 60m ropes.
Bolts and possibly a small cam or two if planning to lead the .12 section as well. Fixed anchors on the lower part, but consider bringing a knife and some fresh webbing as the hangers clogged with old slings.
Aid bolts higher up are rumoured to have been upgraded recently; I'm not sure if this applies to the belay bolts as well.
Near the top of P1 of Dana's Arch (11b).
By Nicola Masciandaro
Jul 29, 2014
My preferred contender for the best short pitch of pumpy bolt-protected pure pin-scarred fun on the planet.
By Jon Nelson
Jul 29, 2014
A pleasingly petite pumpy pitch of perfectly pure pin-scar pulling?