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Dana's Arch Area
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Dana's Arch 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c A3

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c A3 [details]
FA: Bob Crawford, Leigh Nason, Pat Timson, 70 FFA: (P1 Short) Darryl Cramer, Terry Lien
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
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Description 

P1: Climb the thin pin-scarred arch past bolts to a two-bolt sling belay about 40 feet up (.11b). Either descend or continue to free climb through a thin corner past one bolt and possible gear placements to another sling belay before the pitch 2 bolt ladder (12 a/b).

People can aid this pitch as well.

The rest of the pitches are primarily aid:

P2: Bolt ladder and an A3 section.

P3: Mixed free and aid to a rightward trending ramp.

P4: A2 groove/crack that gets runoff from the top.


Location 

P1 is the very obvious left-curving arch encountered after passing the sport wall on the trail heading towards the Earwax wall. Descent from the upper pitches may require two 60m ropes.


Protection 

Bolts and possibly a small cam or two if planning to lead the .12 section as well. Fixed anchors on the lower part, but consider bringing a knife and some fresh webbing as the hangers clogged with old slings.

Aid bolts higher up are rumoured to have been upgraded recently; I'm not sure if this applies to the belay bolts as well.


Protection 

Bolts and possibly a small cam or two if planning to lead the .12 section as well. Fixed anchors on the lower part, but consider bringing a knife and some fresh webbing as the hangers clogged with old slings. Aid bolts higher up are rumored to have been upgraded recently; I'm not sure if this applies to the belay bolts as well.



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