Damsels in Distress
|774 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10 [details]|
|FA: ||Andy Marquardt Brad Mattingly, /90|
|Season: ||Afernoon shade|
|Submitted By: ||arjunmh on May 12, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Arjun at the anchors, the runout to first bolt sho...
The delightfully long line that is on the east facing face of Glitter Box. To get there, it's just out of the "alley" where "Eyes of the World" is, and about 5-10m north along the base of the cliff. First bolt is about 30' up! It's noted as sport in Marty's book: "Climb up the vertical face past 12 bolts to a 2 shut rap. 160'. Double line rap" (though someone left a quicklink at a bolt about 25 m from the top to enable two single line raps if you trust rapping off one bolt from 1990). A fantastic classic route that he degraded from 3 stars to 2 because of loose rock. It seems to have cleaned up nicely as of this writing, and there was fresh webbing around rap rings up top. I'll bring quicklings and rap rings for my next climb of this awesome line to swap out. Bolts are runout all the way until the last 3 before the top. Small cams to 0.75 and including 00 or equivalent C3 are useful. Many placements are done while quite pumped, hence my PG-13 rating.
An easy (7-8) trad climb to the top, didn't replace any webbing to descend or check the descent from there.
12 bolts, with 1-3 pieces of pro suggested between bolts for the first 9.
Hanna rapping the route -- a fun double rope rap i...
roman rapping the route at the end of the day - aw...
near the top of damsels in distress
super intimidating, but it's all there
|Comments on Damsels in Distress
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.10 PG13
This climb is pretty intimidating from the base - steep enduro climbing with widely spaced bolts. Classic for sure.
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.10 PG13
Very long pitch with committing climbing. A few small cams can be placed before the first bolt and periodically during the climb.
From: Oakland CA
Mar 19, 2011
This thing is way bitchin! No supplemental gear necessary with a cool head.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b PG13
It's been years since my last trip up the route. I got full fun value by not having to worry about the rope weight or where the last bolt was by taking the second position. Just pull and go; what a luxury. Clean & fun!
Note: I couldn't quite remember the deal with the rap but you can rap using a single 60' rope if you don't mind breaking it into two raps and utilizing the mid-point shut placement. Otherwise, best to bring two cords for the rap from the top.