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Coney Island
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Angry Dragon 
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Dampened Enthusiasm 
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Dampened Enthusiasm 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Noel Childs, Dan Hare
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 10, 2002
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Description 

This is way right (and way short!), trending up a left-facing, shallow and steep flake/dihedral to jugs. Despite its one star, this is a cool little pitch with not a single boring move. If the landing was flat and not a collection of jagged boulders, this could be a highball boulder problem. It may be kinda soft for 5.12a, if only because the route is so short that there are not too many complicated moves to figure out. By the second bolt is a steep and reachy powerful crux. It can be a little awkward to work the moves as both partners end up swinging in space.


Protection 

Three bolts to a two-bolt lower off.



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By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2011

Don't waste your time on this route unless your trying to tick off all the climbs at Coney Island. Many of the Coney Island Classics sit a couple of minutes above this one. As for this route, it pretty much sucks. It's short, and I remember there being pretty sharp holds. I would recommend climbing this as a highball boulder problem with a bunch of pads underneath if you're gonna do it. It had a few burly moves on it to give it a 12a rating. If you're climbing at the grade of 5.12, go up and do Joy Ride and Der Letztze Zug, both of which are super quality and sustained routes....

By Ben Collett
Oct 19, 2013

To add to the confusion on this tiny panel of rock, a fun contrivance (Wet Badger?) is to climb this route into the Badger Traverse at about the same difficulty as the Badger Traverse.