The longest gully in Huntington's. If you belay each pitch, (or rope simul-climb it) rock gear will be very helpful.
Crampon your way up the steepening snow slope into the deep, narrow gully. After a few hundred feet you'll come to a short grade 3 / 3+ ice bulge. [Editor's note: The FA bypassed this on rock, the bulge was first climbed by a party led W. Putnam cica 1941-42; at that time it was probably the steepest single 15-20 feet of ice climbed in the Northeast. While Pinnacle Gully's 3 section is much longer, it is generally less steep. R.Hall] Surmount the ice bulge and continue on your merry way up more steep snow with intermittent icy or rocky sections. The gully splits near the top. Trending left will take you up snow and frozen turf to the lip of the ravine. Going right looks like tricky mixed climbing, though I'm sure it would go for the right person.
On my trip up there was a substantial cornice forming what looked like an unavoidable vertical to overhanging snow finish (possibly unstable?). Fortunately, with the help of a few rock moves and some frozen moss, I was able to bypass the cornice on the far left.
Also, (soloists especially!) beware of ice dams on this particular route when conditions warrant. An exploding pressurized ice bulge caused a fatality here a number of years ago.
Second gully from the right. Starts very close to the bottom of North Gully.
A handful of screws and rock gear. (0.5 (purple) Camalot useful above the crux.) Perhaps some pickets. Some fixed gear here and there.
On a windy day on this route I was periodically showered with chunks of ice up to the size of a baseball. I was very happy to have my helmet.
By Will Holets
From: Bethlehem, NH
Feb 20, 2014
When I did this back in 2012 I really, really wished I had a picket or two for the final belay. I ended slinging some janky schist horn and then parking my butt and heels in the snow for a little reassurance. Not optimal.
Jun 7, 2016
rating: WI3 PG13
Did this back in 2015, classic WI3 gully and a long run for the money. Watch out for ice dams in the center of the bulges for both ice pitches, a party before us punched through and had to bail. In light snow years, pro gets a little scarce after P3 'crux' if trending left.